
To Age or Not to Age? That is the Question
Is it possible that any
one actually has a palate so great that they can justify $15,000 for a
bottle of 1947 Petrus? Well, at $3000 per glass those 5 cocky British IBs
(Investment Bankers) ironically and deservedly discovered that the price of
that particular wine might have been the least of their costs.
Of course, the prices
of all very expensive aged wines really have nothing to do with reality. In
many cases the wines are never consumed and just become extreme examples of
conspicuous non-consumption. The well-kept secret is that often many become
undrinkable and thus of no real value. Since wine is obviously made to drink
and enjoy rather than look at, extreme aging (beyond 20 years) is clearly a
frivolous exercise in economic and sensuous futility.
It is true that in
recent years, wineries, especially in this country, Australia and Italy have
created wines that can be enjoyed fresh and young. But make no mistake;
moderate aging absolutely does improve the pleasures to be derived from most
wines. The basic rule of thumb is that better wines can be and should be
aged. If you have some present favorites, try aging them a bit to see if it
increases your enjoyment. Even those under $10 bargains will improve with a
few years in the bottle.
However, refrigeration
and expensive equipment is only justified if you own 200 bottles or more and
have a desire to age wines longer than 10 years. You can enjoy the extra
pleasure of a 9 year old Cabernet or a 5 year old Chardonnay merely by
investing a little bit of patience, a few extra dollars in extra inventory
and reasonable care of your wine.