Pinot Noir- The Overlooked Red of California

Every one knows that Cabernet Sauvignon is far and away the most popular red wine of California. Beginning in the late 60s when we thought we were becoming wine sophisticates, it was the order of the day to choose a “Cab”  to go with the steaks, prime rib and lamb chops that we usually ordered when dining out or entertaining at home. 

These wine and food decisions came from our Anglo heritage. The English loved their “Claret”  which is what they called the Bordeaux reds that are  harvested just across the English Channel. Obviously that wine went with the heavy Henry The Eighth red meat choices that America obviously adopted.

However while Cabernets dominated in The U.S., and England, lighter and often  more complex wines are the choice in other parts of the world. This is especially true in France and Italy, the two leading wine producers of the 4 Bs. The Burgundy of France is made from the Pinot Noir Grape and Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello of Italy  come from Sangiovese and Nebbiolo grapes that are a bit also lighter and complex.  

The explosion of interest in Chardonnay which now is the #1 seller in California  came about as our eating habits veered toward the lighter chicken, fish, veal and vegetarian. In reds we have begun to show interest in the lighter but rather simple Merlot which is used in France primarily as a blend with Cabernet grapes.

Pinot Noir has been overlooked in this country as a difficult difficult wine to produce. But many wineries, bored and tired of producing the same old Cab and Chardonnay began experimenting with Pinot Noir. They have been most successful  in the Carneros and Russian River areas just outside of Napa and Oregon and Washington

While it has been a difficult project, the results have been remarkable. Names like Williams and Selyem, Rochioli  and Marcassin have been able to produce wines that are sellouts and allocated primarily to restaurants.. They command close to 3 figure prices.

However as California wine drinkers have become more sophisticated, interest in Pinot Noir has increased dramatically. Even Gallo now produces Pinot Noir. But it is almost impossible to buy the top of the line Pinots unless you have been on the mailing list of the winery for a number of years. Williams and Selyem and Rochioli have 3-5 year waiting lists. t is more difficult to find very good Pinot Noir under $30 than to fnd the more widespread and competitive Cabernets and Chardonnays. 

If your budget can handle the over $30 prices, some of the taste values  to look for are Dehlinger Russian River, Mondavi Carneros ,Testarossa Santa Lucia Highlands and Kenwood.  

If  you want to expand your wine horizons but would like to start a bit lower, there are some very drinkable Pinots under $25. Acacia Carneros, Edna Valley Central Coast and Kenwood are all in fairly good supply. Robert Mondavi Central Coast, Fetzer, and Gloria Ferrer fit that category . At $10 and under you can find Falling Leaf  (a Gallo label)  Gallo itself, Napa Ridge and Columbia Crest.

Look for 97s or 99s if you can find them. Try to avoid 98, which was a down year. Compare them in a taste test with Merlots or Zinfandels. You may have an entirely new wine adventure.