Great Vintages - Strong Dollars Combine to Create Wine Values from Tuscany and Piedmont

The Italians mounted a promotional campaign, which was below the dignity of the haughty French who still maintain a high price, limited production program that stretches reality. Italian mass producers like Bolla and Bertani exported red wines from the Veneto region with romantic names like Valpolicella and Bardolino and a white wine called Soave. They were about $4 a bottle, tasted better than comparably prices French wines and sold like crazy. Italian wine was on its way.

Today, Italy is the #1 wine producer in the world. The industry has matured very quickly and now can command prices over $200 for its best wines. It challenges French wines at every level. Right now, the only wines from France that can match Italian wines from Tuscany and Piedmont for comparable value are ChateauNeuf du Papes and Cotes du Rhone from the lower Rhone.

Tuscany is the area that we are most familiar with since that is where the Chianti d.o.c. is located. In Tuscany, Piero Antinori’s name dominates in the same way that Robert Mondavi dominates in this country.  His “Tignanello” ($75) was the first Super Tuscan, a blend of the traditional Tuscan grape Sangiovese, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc grapes. The hottest premium wine in Italy right now is his Solaia ($115), a similar blend. The more easily found Brunello di Montalcino, a world class pure Sangiovese grape wine also comes from Tuscany.

The Piedmont area is the home of the well-accorded Barolos as well as lesser known Barbarescos and Barberas. It is also the heartland of Italian Haute Cuisine. Angelo Gaja, is the premier producer of premium Italian wine. He easily sells out all of his wines at prices up to $200 per bottle. Most them are made from the Nebbiolo grape grown in the Piedmont region.

The 1996 and 1997 vintages in both of these areas are among the best in recent history and 1998, 1999 and 2000 promise to be close behind. Therefore, you should be able to find very drinkable value priced wines in all categories. Look for Ricasoli, Melini and Gabbiano Chiantis at under $10. Even an Antinoro or a Ruffino Chianti is on the shelf for about $15. Get close to a Brunello with Banfi’s Rosso di Montalcino at about $18. Right now, the best overall Italian value may be the Ruffino Ducale Gold Label Reserve Chianti Classico at about $25.  It is a popular seller in restaurants at about $70. Casanova di Neri a true Brunello and Marcarini Barolo Brunate both rated 94-95 in The Wine Spectator should be found at your local wine merchant for $49 or less.

Finally, the dollar has been hovering around 2100 Lira for quite a while and threatens to get stronger. This gives the American consumer more buying power for foreign goods and may make Italian wines an even better value than they are now.