The Emperor’s Clothes
 Become Even More Invisible

$135 cult Cabernets rated below $28 wines

If you have been following my wine columns for the last two years, you know that I have strong feelings about how wine is priced and marketed. Essentially there are two market approaches. The French Market and the Free Market.

The French Market and its copy in the United States known as the Cult Market have little to do with quality, taste and value. They do have to do with monopoly, limited production and hype.

 The Bordeaux and Burgundy areas of France have perfected this very profitable way of doing business with the aid of the French Government. A few California wineries have emulated this approach without government help.  

While the world population and thus the wine buying population has increased exponentially, Bordeaux and Burgundy limit production to levels that are 100 or more years old. This skews the supply-demand curve (especially in prosperous times) to prices that relate primarily to pleasing one’s ego rather than pleasing the palate. A telling statistic is that there are almost never any Bordeaux (Cabernet grapes) or Burgundy (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes) that have favorable price-quality ratios in the top 100. In 2000 there were none.

With the exception of a small niche in Italy and a United States mini-niche primarily in parts of Napa and The Russian River, the Free Market is every where else. To meet the demands of the expanding world population, quality grapevines have been planted unfettered by government controls throughout the rest of favorable latitudes. Values worldwide today are thus, unprecedented.

Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Spain, Southeast France and most of Italy and the United States now produce quality Cabernet, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc at prices that are fractions of the controlled and cult wines. Only the difficult to grow Pinot Noir has failed to produce large quantities of quality grapes worldwide. But even that is changing.

Since 1998 was not a very good year for Cabernets in the Napa area, few great wines emerged. But there were a lot of rather good ones. If you put in a little effort you can come up with great taste and extraordinary values. However, the general disparity between price and value is now very obvious with the recent tastings of  1997 and  1998s. In spite of negative ratings and reviews, the cult wineries continue to demand Nasdaq 5, 000 prices that are out of touch with reality. They are depending upon consumer inertia and ego to buy these overpriced wines. 

In recent blind tastings, 18 wines were top rated within a 5 point spread. Yet, the prices ranged from $46 for Pride to $250 (Are they kidding?) for Screaming Eagle. All of this has little meaning to most of us since these wines are in such small production (250 cases or so) that they are gobbled up by those that cashed out of the market a year ago or recently bought and quickly sold Northrup- Grumman and Raytheon.                                                                                                         Great Looking Grapes- Fair Wine  

However if you want wines that come very close or are actually in that top category, they are out there. Consider Hess Collection Mount Veeder ’97-98 or Kendall Jackson Alexander Valley Great Estates ’97-98 for $35 or $40.

If you think you absolutely must have Cult Market Opus or Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Reserve at around $140, you should know  that 41 wines at $40 or less, recently blind tasted equal to or better than the above two. Some are in limited supply but many are widely available today. Among those available are the two best values, “Dreaded” Gallo Sonoma Alexander Valley Barrelli Creek Vinyard ’97 and Beaulieu Vinyard Rutherford 98. Both can be found at $28 and $22 or less respectively. (I am not kidding)

Finally, if you are willing to compromise your ego a bit, jump on Kendall Jackson Cabernet-Shiraz California Collage ‘00 blend at $8. It is astounding at just 2 clicks below the cult stuff.

Just In.

However, If you are a mid-price, free thinking, serious red  wine buyer and want what may be the value of the year, look for Badia e Passignano Chianti Classico '96 ($33) by premier Italian winemaker Piero Antinori.   Compare it to Brunello di Montalcinos and other Super Tuscans at twice the price. It will be more pleasing to your palate and certainly to your pocketbook than most of these cult wines, domestic or imported. 

If you can’t locate it or any of the other readily available wines on this page, please e- mail me at my address in the Feedback section for alternatives and possible retail locations. Remember to include your e- mail address. It will not be sold to or used by "dreaded" spammers. 

The next issue on November 1st will provide a complete report on Champagne and Sparkling White Wines from $87 down to $5.99. In many cases there is small difference but large hype.