It's Champagne (?) Time, Again!!!
We Separate The Hype From The Grape
You Save Big-Sip Great-Look Very Smart
For the last two years we have recommended the Spanish Sparkler
Cristalino as the best value for the money, especially at
parties where a dozen bottles may be consumed.
Still available at Cost Plus for $5.99 a full bottle, it
certainly made sense. But now comes along an alternative that is
not only party priced but is also a very serious contender against
serious upscale supposedly "True" French Champagne.
For a start, it is French.
As you know, only wines from a small, clearly designated area around
Reims and Epernay , France, 60 miles East of Paris can now
be called Champagne. Even if the grape is harvested in France, it cannot
bear the name Champagne unless it was harvested in that specific area.
However a lot of great grapes are raised in the surrounding "terroir"
and they are often produced by the same "Methode Champenoise" as
their haughty sisters. They may carry the appellation "Cremant".
There are some very good ones and they are usually priced in the $15
plus range.
However, Trader Joes is now offering a Cuvee Brut named
Cremant de Bourgogne from Blason De Cremant. It is $7.99
and is
unbelievable. We bought two bottles for tasting and drank the first when
we arrived home. It was truly Brut dry and had that toasty aftertaste
that you experience only with top of the line Champagnes.
We would rate it as well above most domestic sparklers and equal to
or above the big Napa and Sonoma names like Schramsberg, Pacific Echo
( formerly Sharfenburger) and Kornell.
I even think it is superior to a true champagne like Moet and
Chandon White Star Brut ($25) and at least as good and probably
better than the now very popular Veuve Cliquot ($35) which is
suffering from gigantic overproduction in response to its remarkable
marketing hype since Moet bought it from the family of Madame Cliquot
of Grand Dame.
If you doubt this is possible, invest in one bottle and taste it. I'm
betting you will run back and buy a case. At $7.99 a bottle, a case of
12 is less than one bottle of the highly overrated Dom
Perignon ($110). You will be shocked. Common sense tells you
that that squat Dom bottle can't be worth $70 by itself.
If you palate demands true champagne opt for Duval Leroy Paris
Blue Label with a Leroy Neiman graphic on the bottle. It is about
$25.
If you seriously demand something that is as good as that
way overproduced Dom Perignon, (where did they find all
those grapes to make 10 times as much Dom as they did a mere 10 years
ago?) look for Duval Leroy Blanc De Blanc at a mere $40
prox. Visit a local wine store to get the best vintage. He may have
to order it.
Finally, if you are really serious and want the best, try to find
Charles Heidseck Blanc de Blanc, 96 at your favorite liquor store.
At around $80, it is far and away the very best premium champagne that
you can buy within $100. Charles Krug at about $350 is
better. But Heidseck makes Louis Roeder Cristal and Dom taste like
Korbel.
Finally, if you hate the French, the best consistent Sparkler is
Louis Roederer Brut available all over town at $17 or less. It is
domestic but unfortunately the parent company is still French.
Domestic Korbel Brut at under $10 is always a good choice as
is Pacific Echo for a few dollars more. Just try to make your
decisions rationally rather than hype. The globalization of wine has put
tremendous pressure on big name overpriced wineries for the last 5 years
with remarkable values available often at 1/4 the price of the
hyped wines of Bourdeaux and Burgundy.
It just takes a little effort but soon proves to be a fun game.