
The Good News and the Bad News-
Great Wine Values from 40 Dollars to 99 cents
If you have been reading the newspapers the last few
days or have been in any of the big boxes that sell wine, you probably have
been shocked.
For months, we have been predicting that the basic
economics of the supply and demand curves made it clear that 2003 would
produce remarkable prices strongly favorable to the wine drinkers of
America. We didn’t think, however that it would be a major disaster to the
wine industry of the West Coast.
Yet all the signals were there. It was a powerful
triple play. Domestic overplanting, low priced quality foreign competition
and the weak economy have combined to create a glut at every level. Perhaps
only the extreme cult wines that are deliberately produced in small
quantities using the classic marketing techniques of the French Grand Crus
will escape the impact. The purchase of these wines is based on ego
satisfaction rather than any economic sense and have an inelastic curve.

However, while the consumer will benefit short term
with lower prices over the next few years, the long-term prospects look
dismal. Small wineries that offer excellent quality at fair prices may not
survive. They will go out of business or be bought out by the Gallos,
Mondavis, Beringers and Kendall Jacksons and the other giants who have
access to the financing that will carry them through this difficult period.
Consolidation reduces and controls competition and eventually results in
higher prices. One only has to look at Bordeaux and Burgundy to understand
how it works.
But we might as well take advantage of our
opportunities while they exist. Many wines that are now being touted as
great values are in fact available in such small quantities that finding
them is an exercise in futility. We will cover a limited number of wines
that are available priced from $40 on down.
If you enjoy Super Tuscans but are unwilling to drop
$100 plus for the Brunellos and Tignanellos, there is hope. The 1999
Avignonesi Toscana Toro Desiderio is comparable, readily available and
priced at about $40. Ask your local wine merchant to order it if he does not
have it in stock. It’s wonderful.
Southern Rhone wines have been price competitive for
the last couple of years. Guigal ’99 Chateauneuf Du Pape is
considered by many to be the best quality red wine value in the world. It
can be found for about $30.
I
f
you can find it, Villa Mount Eden Cabernet Grand Reserve is under
$20. Over the last few years, demand for Chardonnay has been so great that
lower quality wine has flooded the market to meet the demand of those who
say, “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay, please”. Thus, there are few values
in that white except for the magic of Columbia Crest who can deliver
wonderful Chardonnay in quantity for around $10. They deliver the best
overall wine values in the world and are widely available.
However Omaka Springs and Jackson New
Zealand Sauvignon Blancs from the Marlborough Valley deliver wonderful
fruity and dry wines that are my choice in white wines at around $15.
Kendall Jackson in a preemptive strike has taken about $6 off of its
entire value priced category so that you can find Chardonnay, Cabernet and a
wonderful Pinot Noir on sale for under $10. 6 bottles gets you an additional
10% in most supermarkets.
The final amazement comes from Trader Joe’s and…
it’s no joke…. The 99 Cents Store. Bronco vintners, a giant
out of Modesto got their hands on a broad range of quality Central Valley
grapes, shipped them to Napa to be crushed, labeled them under the slightly
deceitful Charles Shaw Napa name and sold them cheaply enough
for Trader Joe’s to sell them for $1.99. The Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot are
especially fine values and have held up in blind tasting with wines above
$10.
The biggest blow came when Staton Hill dumped
its ‘97 Cab which was produced to retail for over $10 to The 99 Cents store
at a price that enabled the latter to retail this wine for… you got it… 99
Cents. While these two prices are shocking, you can be sure that neither of
these prices are one time events. As this year continues, this is going to
occur over and over with other labels that are in distress.
It is great for us now. But three to five years from now, we may have to
pay the price.