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A Peasant
Dish Becomes a Gourmet Favorite
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| Bouillabaisse Night at Café Provencal |
Many
dishes that started as inexpensive local peasant meals throughout the
world, have, with some tinkering, become gourmet specialties even in the
country of origin. Perhaps the best known are the native fishermen’s
stews of the Northern Mediterranean. Every country bordering on that sea
has its own version. In Spain, it is called Zarzuela, in France it is
Bouillabaisse and in Italy, Cioppino. I can’t remember what they call it
in Yugoslavia or Greece but I have had it in one form or another in all
those locales.
Each
country has its own special style of broth or sauce. But there are no set
main ingredients in any of these places for this now ubiquitous stew of
the sea. Essentially it was prepared in the local fishing ports with what
was left of the days catch if the fisherman did not sell out.
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The
best known of these bowls of fish, Bouillabaisse
reputedly originated in Marseille, France. It is impossible to go to this city and avoid having a bowl
of this wonderful concoction, no matter what is in it. Over the years the
mania for Bouillabaisse spread throughout the French Riviera. Now a restaurant
in very upscale Juan le Pins, a little town Southeast of Cannes has the reputation for
serving the finest Bouillabaisse in the world … at Riviera prices 5
times as high as a similar dish is offered in Marseille
Classic
Bouillabaisse rarely had shellfish in it originally and it was served in a
very shallow bowl and even in a plate. The
broth is a delicate and occasionally light white wine based liquid. You personally
determine the flavor of the broth by adding a rich dark mayonnaise like sauce
called Rouille. Further in the classic peasant tradition, small pieces of
toasted French bread (croutes) are dipped or placed in the broth to savor that flavor while
you are eating whatever fish is used that day. As Bouillabaisse spread to
the United States, it incorporated a wide range of shellfish and became
one of the most expensive gourmet dishes in a French Restaurant. When
prepared with care, it is one of the great taste experiences
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the reduction in the number of French Restaurants throughout the
Southland has made Bouillabaisse an endangered species. North of the Santa Monica
Mountains, the only restaurants that serve Bouillabaisse in the area are Café
Provencal in Thousand Oaks and The
Seashell in Woodland Hills. I have not seen it on the menu at 71
Palm, a French restaurant in Ventura.
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Thus, Café
Provencal was our recent obvious choice. The restaurant is located in a
strip mall one block east of the Civic Arts Plaza. As you enter from the
parking lot, you are immediately transported to the South of France. The
room is tastefully decorated with the bright colors of that area. Most of
the friendly and very competent help greets you with a true French accent,
always a good sign. Intimate seating
lines both walls and a row of tables fills the middle of the room.
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Floating
parachute material tents the ceiling in the style of the famed Fleur de
Lys in San Francisco. The room has a feeling of true relaxed intimacy,
which is supported by smooth pleasant service. Some nights a harpist
plays old favorites.
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In
fact, Café Provencal has Bouillabaisse Night the last Sunday of each
month and occasionally on other nights. Call to confirm when it is
available. The personable owner, Serge Bonnet, is from the Marseille area and treats his native dish
with reverence. It is a knockout and a bargain at $24.95 including salad.
There is so much to eat in the bowl that you don’t need to order
anything else (especially if you are
dipping that French bread peasant style). but a nice bottle of Chardonnay
or even a light red such as young Beaujolais or Rhone. We
chose a Russian River (now the prime Chardonnay region in California)
white by Martin Ray (29.95). It had the perfect body and flavor to
stand up to all the flavors in front of us.
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Café
Provencal’s version is served in a large bowl and has ½ small
Maine Lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, calamari, salmon and ahi
tuna all piled high in the bowl. Take your time. It may take two hours to
savor the entire meal. If you still have room there is a great choice of
unique and authentic desserts. Crème Brulee and Apple Tarte Tatin are my
favorites.
While
Bouillabaisse is the thing to order that night, Café Provencal offers a
full menu of Southern French specialties for those that are allergic to
fish or are vegetarians.. All are infused with flavor and the portions are
substantial.
On Sunday Evening June 10, Cafe Provencal will have a
Tour De France of the Northwest 4 course wine tasting dinner with 4
different wines. $45 per person- Tax and tip not Included
Café Provencal 2310
E. Thousand Oaks Blvd. Thousand Oaks 805-496-7121
Convenient
Shopping Center Parking Most
Credit Cards Reservations
Recommended
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