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Deli Dining - Roxy’s of
Thousand Oaks vs. Brent’s of
the Dreaded Valley
Roxy’s Famous Deli
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New York delicatessens have long been part of the
East Coast sports and ethnic folklore of this country. Ring Lardner, Damon
Runyon, Phillip Roth, Joseph Heller, and even John Updike have used them
in scenes designed to garnish stories stripped down to basics.
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| Basics are what “Delis” are all about. No pretenses, no fancy table
clothes or decor, no complicated recitations of specials, ( the servers
don’t have time, besides there aren’t any); just brisk, sometimes
brusque competent service, big menus and most important, big
mouth-watering portions. |
A typical Roxy's Sandwich |
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Chorus girls met their sugar daddies at The Stage Deli. Patrons at the Carnegie
Deli still argue over who has the most obnoxious waiter or the leanest
corned beef. Long gone, Lindy’s was
the place that bookies and bettors met to pay off over Lindy’s famous
cheesecake. Katz’s, in
business since 1889 on the lower Eastside of New York was and still
is the classic prototype except that wise guy quick service
counter-men replace wise--- servers. Katz’s was the scene of the
“I’ll have what she’s having” meal in “When Harry Met Sally”.
Until a few years ago,
Langers, in downtown Los
Angeles for 54 years, was considered the closest replica
West of Manhattan with classic saucy waitresses
and huge portions of artery-clogging sandwiches and soups. But the
neighborhood changed and the old clientele has dwindled along with the
waitresses that don’t want to go into the area.
Now, however, the unchallenged King of the Hill is the
alwaysanhourwait Brent’s in
nearby Northridge.
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Hearty Group of Eaters At Roxy's
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But in determinedly non-ethnic and local Thousand
Oaks, Roxy’s Famous Deli on
the boulevard (with its also always crowded
lobby) is a medium competitor. The walls are plastered with posters
of old movies and Broadway shows. Sports
scores flash across a wall and the room is surrounded with TV sets tuned
to sporting events.
Most of the customers appear to be serious eaters .
Portions of everything are so large that there is always enough for
another meal at home. In fact punishment may be inflicted upon exit for
leaving without a doggie bag.
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The wide-ranging deli sandwiches are gigantic with a
choice of potato salad, cole slaw, fruit or French Fries ($7 to $9). There
are halfers, but why bother? Monstrous salads ($5 to $9) and dinners ($10
to $14) can be topped off with an array of immense desserts that are made
on the premises.
Breakfast offers 28 egg selections, 18 omelets, plus
an assortment of waffles and pancakes.
Since this review, a local version of Brent's has
opened in Westlake and a very authentic Pickles has opened in Newbury
Park.
if you are serious about authenticity, consider the
latter two.
Roxy’s
Famous Deli 1345 E. Thousand
Oaks Blvd 379-6767 Most Credit Cards
Parking in an adjacent lot.
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Take Your Choice |
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Brent’s Deli – Light Eaters Beware
Brent’s is deceptive. It is located in a rundown
Northridge shopping center jammed with cars. The mostly booth seating and
décor makes the place look like a low-key Denny’s coffee shop.
However, behind the sparkling deli cases full of
tempting cheeses, meats and salads the knives of the deli counter- men are
flashing. Waitresses are flying up and down the aisles as though they are
on roller skates. All those cars are parked for Brent’s. And it is 1:45
on a rainy Thursday afternoon. Then as you look at the menu, you begin to
understand.
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The place is authentic. It has all the stuff that
Roxy’s has… plus. There are 4 kinds of Reuben sandwiches. It has that
elusive “Chicken in the Pot” with kreplach (sort of a ravioli) and
matzo balls. The dessert display is loaded with sinful looking tempters
that appear to be a foot high. Cured and day old pickles are immediately
brought to the table along with perfect classic fresh rye bread.
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Brent's is Always Busy
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Dinners are in the $10 to $15 range. For another
$3.95 you get pickled herring or another appetizer, soup or salad, dessert
and beverage. Though it was lunch, I leaped at the “Chicken in the
Pot” ($11.95)-- I hadn’t had it in 20 years. My wife chose a “Black
Pastrami Reuben ((9.95). My
friend ordered a bowl of lentil soup (4.95).
It would have floated the Titanic. His wife chickened out with a ˝
portion of Chinese Chicken Salad. She was barely able to finish it.
The chicken in the pot came in two pots.
There appeared to be an entire chicken in one pot.
Two people could easily share it for dinner.
I ate about less than
1/3 of it and had the rest packed. It took three containers. I had some
for lunch the next day and finished it off at dinner while my wife ate the
half of the sandwich that she took home along with French fries. We passed
on the desserts.
Brent's Deli and Restaurant 19565
Parthenia Northridge 818-886-5679
Most Credit Cards Difficult Strip Shopping Center Parking |
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