Who’s Really Number One? 

We've Got to Know !!!

And We do!!!!!  

The latest furor over which supposed educational institution can put the most foaming at the mouth  behemoths on the turf in search of some suspect award, pales in comparison  with the much more important and oft-asked question…. “What is really the Number One restaurant ?” and with much more critical qualifications … what city, state, country or hemisphere? 

Many people feel that “The French Laundry” in downtown Yountville rates the overall nod, possibly in the entire Western Hemisphere.  But I have a difficult time with that since The Laundry really appears to be  semi-fictional. It may really exist only for a very limited number of Eastern and Socal foodies  who have nothing better to do with their time than to hit the speed dial button on their cell phone for 8 consecutive hours  hoping to find the Holy Grail before all the seats are gone for a specific and divine day. Often a  notch in that  "Coach" gourmet leather belt rather than the actual dining experience  appears to be the main goal.

However, The Laundry now seems a perfect fit for  the famed Yogi Berra line that says   “Nobody goes there any more. It’s too crowded”. Further it may also qualify for that other phrase as a place that “You can’t get there from here. You have to go to someplace else first.” Let's face it. Where the heck is Yountville? And how many people have actually gotten inside The Laundry?

Thus, I prefer to deal with fine restaurants which people can actually contact and get a table. There are lots of them in New York, San Francisco and even a couple in the Chicago area. Emerilville( Nawleans) is way too touristy to be taken seriously, no matter how many "Bams" are inflicted on the unsuspecting ingredients and..... diners.  

There is a list below of some of my choices nationwide in Europe and Asia. But it is really satisfying to recognize that there are serious qualifiers in Los Angeles. Three or four legitimate choices are within 45 minutes of The Conejo and one is in Newport Beach.  But right now in the Los Angeles area there is a clear  standout that qualifies as tops in food, ambience and non-condescending, friendly superior service all at prices that while not inexpensive are fine dining values. It is well above a BCS rating 
 

The name is Bastide (country farm house) on Melrose Place one block North of the more famous Melrose Avenue restaurant row at La Cienega. However, even when you are in front of the restaurant, you may not know it. 

It is very discreetly identified with an understated lighted B at the entrance to the lovely courtyard dining area. Word around town is that $3 ½ million was spent converting this old residence into what many very serious foodies believe is now the unchallenged gem of Southern California dining. Be prepared for that perfection. 

The exact partnership terms appear murky but Bastide is a combination of the dreams of the superbly talented chef Alain Giraud and financial angel Joe Pytka. The latter is a renowned TV commercial producer (he did the Michael Jordan animated spot which eventually became a full length film) as well as a self acclaimed “universal maven” with an apparently big food and wine ego. 

For a myriad of reasons, it took two years  to get the restaurant opened. Perhaps Pytka’s directing background demanded multiple retakes that took an extra year to get the wine glasses placed correctly on the table along with the proper tone of mauve on the server's shirts. The expectation that he would be a non-operating partner turned out to be a myth. In fact many thought he became a micromanager. After all it was his 3.5 million.

 Giraud good naturedly somehow survived ... and the results are breathtaking. The four rooms that constitute the dining areas are all knockouts. If the weather is right, opt for the garden room. It makes Michael's of Santa Monica garden room look like a backyard in Van Nuys. There is a theatrical chef’s room, where you can overlook the kitchen in action. A small patio with a retractable roof and a classic dining room are the other two choices. 

While the food is Provence inspired, the décor is minimalist in the classic Shibui Japanese style. This carries over to an assortment of magnificent individual serving plates. They make each dish a small work of art that is ironically quickly consumed.

Finally there is the Bastide Menu which must be ordered for the entire table and why not? It is a work of art in every way. There is an Amuse Bouche, Foie Gras Torchon, Main Lobster, Wild Loup de Mer (my favorite), a  pause for Sorbet, Colorado Lamb, a brilliant cheese cart, choice of 6 insidious desserts and Petits Fours.

Finally, for $50 per person, you can be served 7 unusual, individual and matching wines in 2.5 oz. prox servings (Unfortunately all French). The sommelier is both informative and friendly. If you are at all serious about wine, that is the road to take.

All the servers are handsomely attired, professional, non-intrusive and in fact as perfect as I have ever experienced and equaled only by the brilliant and personable staff at Jean George in The Trump International-Columbus Circle in Manhattan.

We waited one year to visit Bastide, feeling that it might take that time for Giraud to settle in. It was worth the wait.  He is beginning to test his wings and fly.  We think those wings can take him higher to even greater dining adventures. .