It’s Now Tru in Chicago:
Truly Tantalizing and Terrific

I’m sure that if your elder’s visited The Big Shoulders Windy City of Chicago, (usually for business),  they told you that it was the only place to get  real aged steak (Kansas City?) in the whole world.  And it was either at The Blackhawk or Arnie Morton’s. That was about it for Chicago haute cuisine.

Let’s face it, the Second City, powered by McCormick Place was a convention town rather than a tourist attraction. And conventioneers wanted  red meat and Scotch or Kentucky whiskey neat. No girlie boy Martinis. Wrigley Field was the primary cultural attraction perhaps followed by Lake Michigan and then, maybe…..The Chicago Institute of Art. 

For reasons that are somewhat obscure, Chicago has had (over the last 30 years) a series of restaurants that shockingly and consistently challenge the best in New York, San Francisco or even now the exalted and somewhat now hyped Napa Valley for the crown as #1.

Things began when Le Francais opened in the North Chicago suburb of Wheeling. Foodies in the city popped for $25 (in those days) cab fares to visit what was touted as # 1 nationwide; It was very good but perhaps a little bit of a spin job. That was followed a few years later by equally acclaimed and spun Carlos in next door Highland Park.

The Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton Water Tower opened to accolades with the best hotel food anywhere. It also was very good but still a hotel with somewhat stuffy and tight service and atmosphere.  

Finally, in the early eighties came the real first gunslinger of cuisine. Charlie Trotter emerged as the initial serious food celebrity chef with a nationwide following. He is still in the charming  two story old house in the convenient to downtown Lincoln Park area. Trotter offered innovative, exciting and beautifully presented, never-repeat-a-dish food that quickly and deservedly put him on the vaunted altar as “Best in the Country”.

But Trotter then spread himself too thin in many ways and finally burned himself out somewhat with a foray into the Las Vegas food frenzy. When he realized he could not maintain his very high and demanding levels, he left Las Vegas to now cook only back in Chicago but perhaps he never regained his groove. It is very hard work. He is still good but is now facing a “High Noon” challenge in his own home town.

When we entered the restaurant, we were smilingly greeted in a separate foyer and led to our waiting table.

Amiable service began the moment we were seated. Complimentary Wisconsin spring water or Hildon English sparkling water along with freshly baked gourmet breads and rolls were brought to the table. This was quickly followed by a wonderful amuse bouche.

The menu is all Prix Fixe. There is a 3 course menu at $80, a Grand Collection at $100 and Rick Tramanto’s  Collection at $135. The latter was described as a Spontaneous Sensory Overload. It was not itemized.

There was also a Tomato Collection of 20 different Heirloom Tomatoes at $100 and a Summer Vegetable Collection at $90.

From that point on we were served a beautifully presented array of small portions on an assortment of beautifully selected serving dishes which were works of art on their own. In order :

When we ordered espresso, we were offered choices from a cart of beautiful home made bitter sweet chocolates and petit fors. We begged off and our server immediately produced a small Tru candy box and asked us what we would like placed in it to take back to our hotel.

As we left the restaurant, we were then presented with a little bag containing a wonderful chocolate chip cookie.

The service was impeccable and friendly with not a touch of condescension. The wine list was comprehensive, tuned to the food and fairly priced. The sommelier was amiable and helpful.

It was probably one of the three best dining experiences I had ever had. Right now I would rate it as the best restaurant in the United States.

If you want to debate Tru compared to the qualities of The French Laundry, Jean George, Le Bernardin, Alain Ducasse, Inn in Little Washington, Bastide (Clearly past history), Babbo or any other American restaurant, please contact me via the E-mail address on the home page.

Tru

676 St. Clair Street Chicago Phone 312-202-0001 Fax 312- 202- 0003

Very Conveniently Located 1 Block east of Michigan Avenue and the Water Tower.  

Reservations Needed but do not Require Hours of Redialing        All Credit Cards.

Frankly Noted – Dining Gossip of the Conejo  

Tommaso Barletta, the dynamic super restaurateur-owner of Tuscany and Rustico is planning to open a restaurant in Calabasas. Just watching him in action can tire you out. Yet Tuscany continues to be the finest in the county.

2087 recently closed its doors after a multi-year struggle with consistency and attitude as noted in our review about a year ago. The property had been in play since that time with no takers. A high price and the threat of competition in the new center at The Civic Plaza certainly does not improve the chances for a new dining spot to take over. 

Le Café has recently upgraded its entire operation with a new Chef and Manager. Both come to Westlake with strong background credentials. Chef Gael Lecolley was executive chef at Saddle Peak and General Manager Clark Sarchet managed the prestigious Citronelle in Santa Barbara. We will be looking at them again in the near future. 

P6 has been getting a lot of play but most comments have been about the décor and little about the food. In one of  those  newly on  the scene area code local monthly slicks, a supposedly  knowledgeable (?) reviewer  discussed the furniture and decor for two pages; but  gave the food one paragraph. The reviewer for the county paper seemed totally confused and reviewed  it in the same way that she reviews coffee shops. That is to  be expected since as often is the case she did not have dinner there.  

We will  review it after P6 settles down and can figure out for itself exactly what it is. In the interim there are perhaps many better choices to invest your dining dollar.