|
|
Do You Know the Way to
Monterey--- Carmel Peninsula?
Sightseeing, Food and Lodging Recommendations
|

Monastery Beach Adjacent to Point Lobos Pebble Beach is in the
Distance
|
|
If you are part of our society that still has “A Fear
of Flying”, has cancelled travel plans and has instead leaped into a new
“Zero” interest car purchase, this article is for you. That new vehicle is
just itching to take you away from it all, for a short drive just a few
hours away. Forget the fakery of Las Vegas or oft visited and
banal San Diego. Go North to one of the most beautiful, different and
truly exciting places in the entire United States.
From the Intersection of Moorpark Road and The 101,
The Monterey- Carmel Peninsula is closer than Las Vegas and perhaps two
Fox sitcoms farther than San Diego. However instead of sand, wind, concrete,
industrial strip malls and stressful traffic jams, you’ll be driving on wide
open highways. Time will pass quickly as your eyes feast on the beautiful Pacific, lovely vineyards,
verdant fields of vegetables and rolling foothills. |
If you leave at 8 AM, you can have a late lunch in
thrilling Monterey or Carmel. If you leave at 9 AM, you can break up the
drive with lunch in quaint Pismo Beach at Rosa's Italian Restaurant on Price
Street or Paso Robles at The Wine Deli for an espresso and a salad,
or Lolo's for Mexican. Both are on Spring Street. . Both towns have
many other unique luncheon choices. Stay away from the Madonna Inn and The
Apple Farm near San Luis Obispo. The first is as depressing and rundown as its sign. The
second is an overpriced cutesy joint with mediocre food and incompetent
service.
Soon after you leave 101 and the fascinating
farmlands of John Steinbeck and the Salinas Valley and head toward Monterey- Carmel, you will have a sense of
being a Thousand miles from Thousand Oaks. You’ll find yourself in a totally
different environment with dense banks of tall evergreens and clean air. The
area is much more than the 17 mile drive of Pebble Beach fame and the
Monterey Aquarium. Children of all ages will love it. |
|

China Cove at Point Lobos State park
|
The single most important yet somewhat unknown attraction in
the whole area is The Point Lobos State Park and Reserve,
South of Carmel on Highway 1. It has no equal as a confluence of land and
water any place in this country and possibly the world. You probably will
see pelicans, sea lions, otters, diving cormorants and possibly deer.
Powerful waves will crash on the rocks and threaten to engulf you only to
stop just short. You may get lost for 10 minutes while hiking through the
maze of a dark forest. At the far end of the park you will come upon one of
the most beautiful secluded beaches you have ever seen. I have been to
Point Lobos at least a dozen times and I am still in awe and hunger to go
back. |
|
Try to go during the week when it is less crowded. If you are staying in
Monterey-Carmel for the weekend, get there early before the day-trippers
come down from the Bay Area. While you can park outside and save the car
parking charge, I recommend that you pay the $3 fee and drive in to the main
parking lot. There is a lot to see nearby. Then drive South along the shore
for other interesting sights until you reach the picnic grounds at the South
end of the Park. Picnic there if you choose or hike down to that secluded
beach called China Cove. This sojourn will take about 2-3 hours. There
will still be lots more to see but perhaps on another time.
The Monterey Aquarium is also an obvious must.
To ensure getting in when you want to, it might be worthwhile to buy tickets
ahead of time and then perhaps spend the wait time exploring nearby
Cannery Row or Fishermen’s Wharf. Both areas are fun but somewhat
touristy and most of the restaurants are expensive for what they offer. The
upscale Sardine Factory in Cannery Row has been around for 30 years and is
OK but very pricey. If you must eat at Fisherman’s Wharf, Abalonetti’s may
be the best of the bunch. Unfortunately parking near the Aquarium, Cannery
Row, Fisherman’s Wharf and even downtown Carmel is an adventure. Look for
public pay or metered lots in both towns. Street parking is free in Carmel
but tires are marked on a 90-minute basis,
There is an interesting walking tour of Historical
Monterey including the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. A
map can be obtained at the Monterey Information Center.

If you are adventuresome and have the time, a drive
down Highway One to Big Sur is worth doing. You can lunch at
funky and now also slightly tourist oriented Nepenthe. It is somewhat pricey
for hamburgers, but fun. Or go upscale to The Ventana Inn for
interesting food and a
beautiful hillside view of Big Sur.
An astounding and very worthwhile scenic
and hiking target 5 minutes to the South of Ventana is the beach area of
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. It is free. Reasonable lodging
accommodations in the vicinity are at rustic but comfortable Big Sur
Lodge in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park which is a also great place
to hike. Both parks have camping sites. Reservations should be made 10 days
in advance.
But most people, with good reason, choose to stay in
the convenience of the Carmel area which has a very wide range of
comfortable lodging from under $100 bed and breakfasts, $100+ motels and
$200+ Hotels to the $300- 500 a night golf palaces found in nearby Pebble
Beach and Carmel Valley. The latter may be offering deals right now, based
on the current deluxe travel downturn. Quaint Pacific Grove has an
abundance of interesting bed and breakfasts, some of which are historic
buildings plus the very inexpensive and well reputed Asilomar Conference
complex which rents out excess rooms.
|
|
However, while certainly not inexpensive at $250 + per
night, perhaps the most spectacular lodging on the entire West Coast is the
world famous deluxe motel with the strange name of “The Tickle Pink Inn
”. It is located on a bluff 4 miles South of Carmel. next to the tony
Highlands Inn which is currently in its second or third reorganization, this
time by Hyatt.
The Tickle Pink is superior in almost every category to
the Highlands Inn and at a lower price with more amenities. Every room has a heart-stopping
unencumbered balcony view of Big Sur, Point Lobos and a turbulent Pacific
Ocean at sunset. The price includes a deluxe continental breakfast
served in your room, plus a generous complimentary evening wine and
cheese offering on an enclosed patio. If you stay there, it will be
one of the unbelievable and romantic experiences of your life and you will
agree that it was worth every penny of those few extra dollars.
|

Patio at Tickle Pink for Breakfast or
Daily Evening Wine and Cheese Tasting |
|

|
For years, dining on the Monterey
Peninsula was generally a disappointing experience Prices were high, service was
condescending and the food was erratic. This was and still is
especially true
at the huge hotels in Pebble Beach, Spanish Bay and Carmel Valley. If you
must try one of the big names , your best bet is The Pacific Edge at the
aforementioned Highlands Inn. The room is romantic with large windows
overlooking that unequalled view( call well in advance for a window table)
and the food can be
creative. Service may also have improved under Hyatt control. But understand
that dinner for two with wine may cost just slightly less than a night’s stay at The
Tickle Pink next door. |
|
Further, there is a now a wide range of excellent
moderately priced restaurants offering Italian, Asian, French, Swiss,
Mediterranean, Fusion and Mexican food especially around Carmel and the less
touristy Pacific Grove. You might want to walk around downtown Carmel your
first day to scout out the choices.
|
|

Casanova Restaurant is Located in Historic Old Home
|
During our yearly jaunts to The Monterey Jazz
Festival over the last 33 years, we have eaten in at least 50 different
restaurants and have finely distilled our choices. Our number one choice is
Casanova located in an old and historic house in downtown Carmel. It
is wonderful for lunch or dinner but offers only a complete varied
three-course menu for $35 in the evening. The food is very creative and
satisfying Mediterranean with Italian emphasis. The multiple rustic rooms
are charming and the servers are knowledgeable, courteous and friendly
veterans. You will feel comfortable and at home the moment you walk in. It
has one of the best wine cellars in California.
|
Our second Choice is Robert's Bistro at the
Crossroads Shopping Center just South of Carmel. Highly rated chef
Robert Kinkaid operated the very upscale and expensive Fresh Cream
on the water in Monterey but sold out to return to his native Oregon. The
call of Monterey –Carmel was too great however and he returned a couple of
years later to open his eponymous, more casual and customer friendly French
bistro. The food is heartily and cheerfully served in pleasant country
French surroundings. The Rio Grill, in the same complex was the hot
restaurant of the area for years but seems to have tired out. The pleasant
and atmospheric Mandarin Szechuan restaurant, The Golden Buddha is
located across the street in the Barnyard Center. All of these
restaurants have the advantage of convenient and free shopping center
parking.
|

Robert Kinkaid Owner-Chef Robert's Bistro |
 |
There is a wide range of less expensive and interesting
choices in the relaxed and easily accessible Pacific Grove area West of the
Aquarium. If you are sightseeing around Asilomar Beach and the
Point Pinos Lighthouse, an inexpensive casual choice for fresh
fish is The Fisherman’s Wife.
Finally, if you want to take an extra day( It's worth
it) and you are a
courageous driver, on the way up consider taking the Morro Bay cutoff to
Route 1 and Hearst Castle. You can stay over in Morro Bay or Cambria to visit
the Castle or just continue on to explore Big Sur arriving late that day
in Monterey-Carmel. It is a scenic but winding Ocean-Mountain road
comparable to the famous Amalfi Coast Drive in Italy (only much closer). It
then becomes an 8-hour journey rather than a 5 hour drive But with lots of
magnificent sightseeing stops along the way, it is a too-fer, a journey
with an equally wonderful destinaton. You will never forget it. |
|