Big Boxes Battle
Bigger Boxes……..Booo
As a former retailer that was essentially driven out of
business by a triple confluence of BBs, I found it very ironic that the
giant food chains are now seeking support for their apparent plight. Aren’t
they the same guys that mercilessly destroyed most of the small family
operated mom and pop markets in this country. No longer are there the
friendly and personalized meat markets, vegetable stores and bakeries. Of
course with their drug divisions and other big box cohorts they also
finished off the neighborhood pharmacies and hardware stores.
Now they come crying that they are the underdog and
need public support. Instead of facing the fact that they have become fat
and inefficient merchants, they hope to become competitive over the bodies
of their employees. They may have a modest point since it appears that the
average supermarket checker whose main skill is to run a wand across a bar
code has higher pay and better perks than a high school teacher who has
perhaps 6 years of college training.
But did any one notice that the chain markets'
austerity plan to compete against those meanies from Wal-Mart and Costco
doesn’t mention any plans to reduce the salaries of their top executives?
Recent revelations about executive compensation and perks at Enron, Tyco,
Adelphia, Global Crossing, Worldcom and of course, the NYSE among many
others would seem to point to the executive offices as the place to begin
cost cutting and downsizing.
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By now, you are probably wondering what
FrankAboutFood.com. has to do with all of this. Or, you
may have realized that it IS about food. It is about the Battle of
the Big Boxes of Food.
However this ironic battle of two groups of food
retailers that deserve each other is merely a lead in to another Big Box
intrusion that is actually much more important to FrankAboutFood.com. It is
the Big Box onslaught of insipid and synthetic chain food joints that is
threatening to eat up one of the few remaining bastions of small business,
the individually owned quality restaurant.
We have been an observer of this issue for some time.
But it really hit me right between the eyes when I saw the recent article on
the rental plans for the Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Center retail
space, perhaps to be soon announced as The Mall of Caruso. That
voracious developer has never seen a financable Big Box type that he didn't
love. |
His retail project is being heavily subsidized by local
city tax funds. In fact, Caruso may not have
to put up a penny. It has been touted as the first step in redeveloping the
feel of a real downtown core. This has recently and successfully been
created on Main Street in the city of Ventura. Yet the Thousand Oaks Caruso
Mall plan does have not have one
local business to be found among the group. Instead this project offers
a typical deadly big box attack on authentic and enjoyable fine private
small business restaurants.
We are now in the age of Food 4-D.
It is
The Dumbing Down of Dining Driven by price earnings considerations. That
above mentioned and supreme pleasure of authenticity is being taken
from us by Wall Street corporations. And yet we eat their insidious
programs. What is worse we encourage our children to grow up eating
trash chain food that induces obesity..
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One of the most upsetting and blatant culprits of
course is P.F. Chang that offers coffee shop Chinese food in a B
movie studio setting. You'd expect Charlie Chan to be your waiter.
Thus
instead of experiencing the true ethnicity of a classic Chinese family
restaurant like the local Lakeview Gardens, our children will be
raised thinking that this dumbing down of one of the great cuisines of the
world is real Asian Ethnic dining. How sad.
Instead of discovering the pleasure of real Italian
Pizza, Sorrento style as offered by such stalwart locals as Gino's,
Marcello's and Rustico, we get Pineapple Pizza, Hollywood style
from the now faltering California Pizza.
Instead of the authentic Japanese Sushi Bar atmosphere
and truly fresh fish of owner operated Sushi Yusho and
Kaminari, we get an assembly line version at a recently created chain
called Sushi Ko. A chain of sushi bars !!!!. As Johnny Mac would say
"You can't be serious"
Oh yeah, in place of the good old neighborhood ice
cream parlor we have the currently confused "Ben and Jerry's.
Amazingly there is no
Starbucks in the mix, but a close second wanabee. Finally, there is some outlandish
simulation of macho cowboy dining (?) that is hardly worth mentioning.
This entire issue became clearly defined when we dined at
Valentino's in Santa Monica a few days later. Many think that
Valentino's is one of the two best upscale Italian Restaurants in the United States. The Wine Spectator rates the wine cellar as #1.
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Valentino's has been in the same location for over 30
years having gone through numerous remodels including a recent upgrade
which makes its four lovely and quiet rooms one of the most pleasant dining
spots in the Southland.
In spite of his long term individual success and stature,
original owner Piero
Selvaggio is still at the door greeting almost every guest, almost every
night. He occasionally visits his other restaurant at The Venetian in
Las Vegas but clearly understands that his Los Angeles patrons are more discerning
and expect more of a fine restaurant than the rather rowdy supposed high rollers of Vegas.
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Piero
Selvaggio |
His kitchen staff has been in place for decades. In
spite of Valentino's worldwide reputation, his similarly experienced wait
staff is one of the friendliest, competent and non-condescending teams
anywhere. They make the enitre experience a truly wonderful
experience.
A cleavage enhanced high school dropout who has difficulty
pronouncing Sauvignon Blanc much less spelling it will never greet you at a
quality private dining establishment . Her
speaking skills may end after announcing that her name is Brittany
and she will be happy to meet any of your desires. Look for her at
counterfeit food joints like Chiles, Outback, Stuart Anderson, Hooters, TGIF,
Denny's and their ilk
Granted, Valentino's is expensive but it is the
ultimate symbol of the dining experience you should expect
when dining out. However you can find many experiences in Ventura
County that will provide only slightly less culinary pleasure at prices that
may be pennies more than those bloated Big Box synthetics. The premier
indicator of a satisfying experience is that the owner is always on the
premises either in the kitchen or greeting you at the door.
Contrary to this area's food snobs who make
pronouncements that" You must go over the hill to get a decent meal",
Ventura County can provide has a wide range of dining experiences in every
category. With three possible exceptions we may be superior to all the
eateries in the "dreaded" San Fernando Valley and certainly are choices over
the phony joints of Malibu like Nobu, Geoffries's and Beau Rivage.
In addition to those mentioned above, look to superior
overall experiences at the following: Mandevilla, Fins, Moez Buddha Bar,
Cafe Provencal, Takahashi, Chester's (Chinese in Camarillo), 71
Palm, ZAX and Deco in Ventura, Adobe
Cantina, Pookies, Leila's and finally
Tuscany (Priced somewhat above the others, but worth it). In each case, the owner is almost always on the
premises, either in the kitchen or at the door and it shows.
A final note: If budget considerations make you
hesitant to visit some of the above and yet you want your children to avoid
the synthetic chain experience that may scar them for life, always consider an
Asian restaurant. They truly love kids. In every case children are given
special treatment and made to feel very honestly
comfortable with menu choices that will have little
effect upon your credit card. In fact, in most cases, they eat for
nothing since they can share in the family style offering and they love
rice. At the same time they will learn
things and become educated about a very important part of our world. |