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Big Boxes Battle Bigger Boxes……..Booo

As a former retailer that was essentially driven out of business by a triple confluence of BBs, I found it very ironic that the giant food chains are now seeking support for their apparent plight. Aren’t they the same guys that mercilessly destroyed most of the small family operated mom and pop markets in this country. No longer are there the friendly and personalized meat markets, vegetable stores and bakeries. Of course with their drug divisions and other big box cohorts they also finished off the neighborhood pharmacies and hardware stores. 

Now they come crying that they are the underdog and need public support. Instead of facing the fact that they have become fat and inefficient merchants, they hope to become competitive over the bodies of their employees. They may have a modest point since it appears that the average supermarket checker whose main skill is to run a wand across a bar code has higher pay and better perks than a high school teacher who has perhaps 6 years of college training.

But did any one notice that the chain markets' austerity plan to compete against those meanies from Wal-Mart and Costco doesn’t mention any plans to reduce the salaries of their top executives? Recent revelations about executive compensation and perks at Enron, Tyco, Adelphia, Global Crossing, Worldcom and of course, the NYSE among many others would seem to point to the executive offices as the place to begin cost cutting and downsizing.


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By now, you are probably wondering what FrankAboutFood.com. has to do with all of this. Or, you may have realized that it IS about food. It is about the Battle of the Big Boxes of Food.

However this ironic battle of two groups of food retailers that deserve each other is merely a lead in to another Big Box intrusion that is actually much more important to FrankAboutFood.com. It is the Big Box onslaught of insipid and synthetic chain food joints that is threatening to eat up one of the few remaining bastions of small business, the individually owned quality restaurant. 

We have been an observer of this issue for some time. But it really hit me right between the eyes when I saw the recent article on the rental plans for the Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Center retail space, perhaps to be soon announced as The Mall of Caruso. That voracious developer has never seen a financable Big Box type that he didn't love.

His retail project is being heavily subsidized by local city tax funds.  In fact, Caruso may not have to put up a penny. It has been touted as the first step in redeveloping the feel of a real downtown core. This has recently and successfully been created on Main Street in the city of Ventura. Yet the Thousand Oaks Caruso Mall plan does have not have one local business to be found among the group. Instead this project offers a typical deadly big box attack on authentic and enjoyable fine private small business restaurants. 

We are now in the age of Food 4-D.  It  is The Dumbing Down of Dining Driven by price earnings considerations. That above mentioned and supreme pleasure of authenticity is being taken from us by Wall Street corporations. And yet we eat their insidious programs. What is worse we encourage our children to grow up eating  trash chain food that induces obesity..

One of the most upsetting and blatant culprits of course is P.F. Chang that offers coffee shop Chinese food in a B movie studio setting. You'd expect Charlie Chan to be your waiter. 

Thus instead of experiencing the true ethnicity of a classic Chinese family restaurant like the local Lakeview Gardens, our children will be raised thinking that this dumbing down of one of the great cuisines of the world is real Asian Ethnic dining. How sad.

Instead of discovering the pleasure of real Italian Pizza, Sorrento style as offered by such stalwart locals as Gino's, Marcello's and Rustico, we get Pineapple Pizza, Hollywood style from the now faltering California Pizza.

Instead of the authentic Japanese Sushi Bar atmosphere and truly fresh fish of owner operated Sushi Yusho and Kaminari, we get an assembly line version at a recently created chain called Sushi Ko.  A chain of sushi bars !!!!. As Johnny Mac would say "You can't be serious"

Oh yeah, in place of the good old neighborhood ice cream parlor we have the currently confused "Ben and Jerry's. Amazingly there is no Starbucks in the mix, but a close second wanabee. Finally, there is some outlandish simulation of macho cowboy dining (?)  that is hardly worth mentioning. 

This entire issue became clearly defined when we dined at Valentino's in Santa Monica a few days later. Many think that Valentino's is one of the two best upscale Italian Restaurants in the United States. The Wine Spectator rates the wine cellar as #1.

Valentino's has been in the same location for over 30 years having gone through numerous remodels including a recent upgrade which makes its four lovely and quiet rooms one of the most pleasant dining spots in the Southland.

In spite of his long term individual success and stature, original owner Piero Selvaggio is still at the door greeting almost every guest, almost every night. He occasionally visits his other restaurant at The Venetian in Las Vegas but clearly understands that his Los Angeles patrons are more discerning and expect more of a fine restaurant than the rather rowdy supposed high rollers of Vegas.

Piero Selvaggio

His kitchen staff has been in place for decades. In spite of Valentino's worldwide reputation, his similarly experienced wait staff is one of the friendliest, competent and non-condescending teams anywhere. They make the enitre experience a truly wonderful experience. 

A cleavage enhanced high school dropout who has difficulty pronouncing Sauvignon Blanc much less spelling it will never greet you at a quality private dining establishment . Her speaking skills may end after announcing that her name is Brittany and she will be happy to meet any of your desires. Look for her at counterfeit food joints like Chiles, Outback, Stuart Anderson, Hooters, TGIF, Denny's and their ilk

Granted, Valentino's is expensive but it is the ultimate symbol of the dining experience you should expect when dining out. However you can find many experiences in Ventura County that will provide only slightly less culinary pleasure at prices that may be pennies more than those bloated Big Box synthetics. The premier indicator of a satisfying experience is that the owner is always on the premises either in the kitchen or greeting you at the door.

Contrary to this area's food snobs who make pronouncements that" You must go over the hill to get a decent meal", Ventura County can provide has a wide range of dining experiences in every category. With three possible exceptions we may be superior to all the eateries in the "dreaded" San Fernando Valley and certainly are choices over the phony joints of Malibu like Nobu, Geoffries's and Beau Rivage.

In addition to those mentioned above, look to superior overall experiences at the following: Mandevilla, Fins, Moez Buddha Bar, Cafe Provencal, Takahashi, Chester's (Chinese in Camarillo),  71 Palm, ZAX  and Deco in Ventura,  Adobe Cantina, Pookies,  Leila's and finally Tuscany (Priced somewhat above the others, but worth it). In each case, the owner is almost always on the premises, either in the kitchen or at the door and it shows.

A final note: If budget considerations make you hesitant to visit some of the above and yet you want your children to avoid the synthetic chain experience that may scar them for life, always consider an Asian restaurant. They truly love kids. In every case children are given special treatment and made to feel very honestly comfortable with menu choices that will have little effect upon your credit card. In fact, in most cases, they eat for nothing since they can share in the family style offering and they love rice. At the same time they will learn things and become educated about a very important part of our world.