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Another French Revolution-Values In Dining
Café Bizou now in Pasadena and Santa Monica
Offering interesting food at remarkable prices, served by friendly and
competent personnel in pleasant but perhaps tight surroundings, Café
Bizou in Sherman Oaks quickly became one of the two most popular serious
dining spots in all of Southern California. Now it seems that it has
single-handedly created a renaissance of interest in the French Bistro.
Their recent addition on Pasadena’s Raymond Avenue restaurant row is a
hit. They also just opened in Santa Monica. Other restaurateurs
have followed the mode.
When gourmet dining became “au courant” in
Southern California a few decades ago, the foodies flocked to fancy new
French restaurants that featured elaborate cooking and rich sauces served
by arrogant French waiters. There were few Italian or Chinese restaurants
and no sushi bars or Vietnamese. Alice Waters’ contemporary American
cuisine did not exist.
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It all started with the very expensive and haughty Perino’s , followed
with Robaire, Mon-Arc, the wonderful La Grange, Le Hermitage, Le
Restaurant, Le St. Gemain, La Chaumiere, Ma Maison and thepretentious L’Escoffier Room on top of Merv
Griffin’s Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills. Later came the beautiful but
very trendy and snooty show biz L’ Orangerie (with almost mandatory
one-hour waits beyond the reservation at the bar) and the equally trendy
show biz Le Dome. |

Rare Rack of Lamb with salsifi root,
garlic spinach and asparagus
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Victims of the move to lighter, healthier food and the
pasta-sushi craze, all those famous names are gone. Except for the last
two, which only goes to prove that the entertainment business is peopled
by a certain group of sado-masochists who think it is sophisticated to pay
big prices, be kept waiting, insult and be insulted.
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Chicken Breast w\mashed potatoes, spinach & carrots |

Grilled Ahi Tuna with Shitake Ravioli |
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Even the popular Normandy on Thousand Oaks Blvd.
closed, perhaps because it served lots of heavy food in big portions. Only
Le Rendezvous with tight family management has managed to survive those
days.
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| But Café Bizou may have changed all of that. It has
a broad, innovative and lighter Franco-Asian menu that features fish. The
Monkfish with saffron risotto ($15.95) is wonderful as is Sesame Coated
Salmon (14.95) on a bed of potato pancakes and mushrooms. Braised Beef
Short Ribs or Steak Au Poivre (17.95 each) with flavored mashed potatoes
offer the French Bistro take for meat eaters. |
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Expansive Room Has both Booths and Tables for Elegant Dining |
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There is an interesting selection of appetizers such
as Lobster and Salmon Ravioli (7.50) and Crab Cakes, Tuna Tartare, Tuna
Sashimi all at $8.95. Perhaps you might split one or two for the table
since you can order a wonderful Soup Du Jour or Romaine Salad with mustard
dressing for only one dollar more with the entree. Desserts include Crème
Brulee, Profiterole and Warm Chocolate cake at about $5. They can also be
split to save calories and a couple of bucks.
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The final kicker which brings people in droves is
that wine corkage is an astounding $2. Thus your bill for a complete
upscale meal at any of the three Bizous can be as little as $20 plus tax
and tip.
The food can be a bit less precise than it was when
chef-owner Neil Rogers was doing all the cooking at one location.
Exuberant sauces occasionally dominate the basic dish but it is not a
usual occurrence. |
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High Level Bizou Bar Attracts Interesting Patrons |
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The Sherman Oaks location on Ventura is closer. But
it is still in the “Dreaded Valley”.
Pasadena is another 20 minutes on the mostly Diamond Lane freeway
east. For that “schlep”, you get a very elegant, quiet and open room
with a beautiful bar plus a much better chance at a desirable reservation.
Finally, Pasadena itself has had a renaissance and strolling around
adjacent Old Town is a revelation. Dining at Cafe Bizou Pasadena is also a
revelation that most often richly rewards you for the effort.
Sherman Oaks 14016
Ventura Blvd. 818-986-5550
101 to Van Nuys offramp-South to Ventura Blvd.- Left to restaurant (30
minutes)
Pasadena
91 N. Raymond Ave. 626-792-9923
101-134-210 to Fair Oaks offramp- right on Fairoaks about 2-3 blocks to
Holly - left one block to Raymond-right on Raymond fee valet parking. (45
minutes)
Santa Monica 2450 Colorado
Blvd. 310-582-8972 Malibu Canyon to PCH - South to the10
tunnel-
through tunnel to 17th Street off ramp. North to Colorado.
Right on Colorado to restaurant. (55 minutes)
PS If driving East or past Kanan Road at any time
outside of work bugs you, try Café Provence in Thousand Oaks, Le Café in
Westlake, or 71 Palm in Ventura to be part of the New French Bistro
Revolution. Then let me know
how you rate them. |
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