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Finally … Flavor in North Ranch
Leila’s
We went to
Leila’s at the Oak Park Plaza shopping center soon after it opened in
June of ’99. For reasons that were not clear we did not enjoy our
dinner. We tried a second time and again had a similar feeling. The food
was fairly good but we did not enjoy the overall experience. The room
seemed small and claustrophobic and the waiter we had both times was more
interested in putting on a performance than serving our table.
But we kept
hearing good things about the restaurant. And it was enlarging its
location, another good sign. We waited a while for it to settle down in
its new surroundings before trying again. |
| In the center of the main room
there is a casual dining bar that views the open kitchen. A wall was
broken through opening up this small room, which leads to an elevated
spacious second room that has a couch for patrons waiting for tables. Many
people prefer this new room while some regulars prefer the intimacy of the
original area, which is a bit long and narrow for my taste. Both rooms are
romantically lit with unobtrusive low voltage halogen lighting.
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Intimate Dining in Original Leila's Dining Room
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The menu, which
changes a bit periodically, is small with about 5 appetizers, 4 salads and
9 main courses. Thus, there are no specials with unstated prices that may
shock you when you get the bill. But every dish on the menu was
interesting and appealing. My wife had a salad of Slow Roasted Beets
with spiced candied walnuts and warm crispy goat cheese with rosemary
honey vinaigrette ($8). I tasted it. It was wonderful. Our friends
raved about the Grilled Asparagus ($7) and the Crispy Asian Shitake Spring
Roll with red wine star anise truffle reduction ($9). I had Peking Duck
Confit Pancake. It provided a great taste.
Main courses
range in price from $12 for Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli to $23 for a
“Seasalt and Cracked Peppercorn” Filet Mignon with scallion mashers.
My wife chose Grilled Thai Salmon with sticky rice pancake and cucumber
peanut salad ($18). I tasted it and it was cooked perfectly. I chose the
Ginger Hoisin Braised Lamb Shank with Chinese mustard mashers and grilled
asparagus ($18). It burst with flavor and was one of the best lamb shanks
I had ever eaten. One friend, a trout fisherman, ordered Pan Roasted Red
Trout with potato hash, garlic and spinach ($19). He asked for the recipe.
His wife had Black Mustard Seed Sea Scallops with roasted tomato golden
orzo ($17).
Deserts are made on premises. Are all
$6 and include tempters such as the now ubiquitous Molten Chocolate
Pyramid with crème anglaise and berry coulis, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and
Lemon Curd Parfait, Creme Brulee Tart Cherry and Key Lime Pie.
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Grilled Thai Salmon |

Ginger Hoisin Braised Lamb Shank |
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| Service was
friendly and casual but professional. The manager- sommelier was
knowledgeable without being pretentious. We had a bottle of “J” Pinot
Noir, which at $29 was well priced at a fair less than double retail.
Corkage is $9. The number of Asian items on the menu led us to conclude
that the food might be Asian Fusion. Management thought it might be
Contemporary Eclectic American, certainly a mouthful. (Oh Boy). Perhaps
you can come up with a simpler and better description.
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Celebration in Leila's Addition
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When we
interviewed management further, the reasons for the improvement were
clear. Chef Richard DeMane truly understands the meaning of flavor. He
came aboard a few months after Leila’s opened. Exposure and attention to
some of the finest chefs and restaurants in the country have honed his
sophisticated tastes and skills. He worked the kitchen at Michael’s in
Santa Monica, at one time the most expensive and “in” restaurant in
Los Angeles. He cooked at upscale Bistro 2087 on Thousand Oaks Blvd. His
energy and talent are etched on his face and in his movements.
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Extremely
polished owner host Peyman Ashfar has been in the business since he was 19
while attending and graduating from the University of Oregon. He managed
the hot Tribeca in West Hollywood for 5 years before returning to Portland
to open his own Tribeca. He sold it in 1998 to get back to Southern
California and opened Leila’s in 1999. He knows what he is doing.
Manager- wine
steward Joseph Kono has a life history that might make him a sit-com star.
His last name is actually Konopelski…shortened . He was adopted from
Korea at the age of three by a Polish- American family, which might make
him the only Polish American Asian in the world. He worked as a chef in
some of South Florida’s top restaurants before coming to California
where he worked the dining room at Bistro 2087.
Leila’s
706 Lindero
Canyon Road, Oak Park 818-707-6939
Reservations are Essential .
Easy Shopping Center Parking. Most
Credit Cards. Dinner Only -
Closed Monday |
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