If you are not familiar with the area, please be aware of this; The Monterey-Carmel peninsula is everything that frantic Las Vegas or touristy San Diego is not.  It is actually a relaxed and real place where the natives live happily all year round, surrounded by natural, rather than manufactured scenery.

This contrasts with all those crowded Las Vegas thoroughfares comprised mostly of copies of other places, strip joints and pickup clubs that offer mediocre but expensive “celebrity” style food along with unbelievably overpriced booze.

That is the price you pay in return for the lure of sinful fantasies so serious (and unlikely) that it will have to “Stay in Vegas” secreted from the square relatives back home.  

Then, there are those overpriced beach amusement parks!! They separate you from a week’s wages for a day in San Diego so the kids can watch that sad lonely whale jump for food while confined to a habitat that is one millionth of normal size..  Your cat has more living space.   

You should also know that today, Monterey-Carmel is much more than the old memories of 17 Mile Drive, a bunch of extravagant golf courses and Fisherman’s Wharf. In fact, it offers visions of nature’s seas, flora and fauna that you and or your children…. will never forget.  

My pulse always rises with anticipation as I drive in from the East on the Salinas Highway or from the South on the thrilling Highway 1 route from Morro Bay through Big Sur.  Both entries quickly make it apparent to you that you are in a venue that seems 2,000 miles from where you have ever been. I have visited the area perhaps 35 times and find something new and different every single time. And yet Monterey-Carmel still retains traditions that go back to the original landings by the Spaniards hundreds of years ago. The choice of things to see, places to stay or restaurants in which to dine is now incredible. I’ll try to make it complete but simple.

Thus let’s begin with the many wonderful attractions……. in order of importance.

#1. The first and most important thing to see to set the mood for both adults and children is the Monterey Bay Aquarium. David (HP) Packard’s daughter had become an ichthyologist (it is a word….fish expert) and told her daddy she would like to build a wondrous aquarium on the Monterey Bay Peninsula. She said it would cost about $70 million. He sold a few printer cartridges and gave her the money. She produced a spectacular bargain. 

The giant tank at the entry which seems to be a part of the bay will keep every one busy for  almost an hour. Then the live playful otters show will thrill child and adult alike. Try to get to the otters  when they are being fed .The best bet is to get there early and then break for lunch or a snack on the lovely patio overlooking Monterey bay. You can easily spend about 3 hours at the aquarium.  There is convenient parking.

Reservations are crucial on the weekends but ease up during the week. The hotel or motel that you choose can probably arrange for reservations and tickets at no extra cost. It is much easier than it used to be when there were always long lines.

Touristy Cannery Row ( you can walk) and Fisherman’s Wharf  (a short 5 minute drive) are near with an assortment of fairly good but expensive sit-down restaurants such as The Sardine Factory and Whalers Cove and perhaps a dozen “grab a crab” spots that may also have seating on the water. Tee shirt shops abound.  Downtown Monterey adjacent to Fisherman’s Wharf is the location of “The Walk of History” where you will find some of the oldest buildings in The United States.

#1A.  An absolute must and equal to the Aquarium in impact is Point Lobos State Reserve, It is 5 minutes South of Carmel on Highway One on the right about a mile south of The Barnyard-Crossroads Centers at Rio Road. The entrance sign is rather unobtrusive. We have visited Point Lobos at least 10 times.

Point Lobos and environs have been called “The Greatest Meeting of Land and Sea”. It is not an understatement. At high tide powerful  waves crash within 5 feet  only to be stopped by boulders just in front of you. Sea lions, seals and otters can be seen up close sunning themselves on giant rocks or frolicking nearby. Wild life is everywhere in the hilly trails. Pelicans, herons and cormorants fill the air.

Whalers Cove at the North end of the reserve is wondrous spot for scuba diving. At the South end of the park, there are picnic tables overlooking large tide pools where you can relax with a pleasant lunch and a great bottle of wine purchased at one of  the area wineries.

A long staircase down a cliff 100 yards from the picnic tables takes you to China Cove, one of the most beautiful secluded beaches you will ever see.

If you are a hiker or a biker or even a driver, you can easily spend more than 3 or 4 hours at Point Lobos finding scenic wonders at every turn. Do not miss it.  Be sure the battery on your digital camera is fully charged. You will wear out your finger. Edit as you go or you may run out of space.

#2. 30 minutes further South from Point Lobos hidden in the heart of Big Sur is the amazing Julia Pfeiffer Beach on the right. Again the sign is very small. It is a powerful beach with waves crashing through rock formations at every turn. The power of the surf and sand has been the scene of many filmed erotic water seductions including folks like Richard Burton. Elizabeth Taylor and Ava Gardner (I think). You can grab lunch nearby at casual Nepenthe or up scale Ventana. Also in the area is the hidden in the trees Post Ranch with suites that are in the $1,000 a night range. Rustic accommodations under $100 are also available at Big Sur Lodge in the also very scenic and ubiquitous Julia Pfeiffer State Park.

#3. The 17 Mile Drive is actually among the least exciting parts of the area unless you are turned on by looking at $10,000,000 homes from a distance owned by someone else. Except for The Lone Pine, the rest of the coastline is not in the ball park with Point Lobos.

You do get to see portions of Pebble Beach golf course and environs.  Club XIX the restaurant there is as pretentious as its name. The Spanish Bay development is more interesting and has a spectacular view both North and South.  Roy’s of Hawaii chain has a great looking room there with food similar to what is offered in Woodland Hills but perhaps at higher prices. If you tell them at the gate that you are going to dine at one of the restaurants, there is a better than even chance they will forego the entrance fee.

#4. Carmel  by the Sea is a very cute walking, shopping town, with typical upscale boutiques, souvenir stores and dozens of choices for lunch most of which are fun and above average. Eat lunch lightly and concentrate on the many fine dining choices available mostly in Carmel with some in Monterey and Pacific Grove. My light lunch choice in Carmel is long term Flaherty’s around the corner from Ocean for fish salads and very fresh oysters.  250 year old Carmel Mission is at the Southern end of Carmel on Rio Road.

#5. There is a surprising number of fine wineries and tasting rooms in the Carmel Valley area and East in the lovely foothills. Chateau Julien, Bernardus and Talbot are interesting choices.

                                            Dining Survey

The fine dining choices have exploded exponentially in the last 5 years. So I will start at the top prices and move down describing quickly, mostly those where  I have actually had an experience.  You can also make your own choices by using local dining guides. It's an adventure.

L’ Auberge Carmel was created by David Fink at the hotel of the same name to attract the same clientele as the French Laundry in Napa. It offers tasting menus only and is very good. But the executive chef recently left for the gold of Southern California and I cannot guarantee that the gourmet experience will justify $350 plus for two that you can drop with matching wine, tax and tip. Fink also has Bouchee in downtown Carmel and it offers superior upscale dining at about 1/2 the price.  It is my first gourmet choice.  Fink also operates the more casual Italian styled Cantinetta Luca which looks interesting but I have never dined there.

Then there is the Pacific Edge at the Highlands Inn with well prepared expensive food in a wonderful setting if you are lucky enough to score a window table at sunset. Bernardus restaurant at the eponymous  hotel in Carmel Valley has many supporters but I rate it as a bit tight in personality.  Casanova used to be the number one choice with “The in Crowd” in Carmel  along with having one of the best wine cellars in the state but management became caught up with its success and seems to me to have lost focus. When the weather is right it is fun for a serious lunch with great choices but it has lost its charm for dinner. Fresh Cream at the edge of Monterey was also considered a top choice but has lost its luster while retaining high prices.

Flaherty’s as noted in Carmel is a good dining choice for fish. Grasings offers unique dining in the midpriced range while quirky L’Escargot offers an intimate French setting with very amiable service and interesting food. Although a chain, Il Fornaio is a safe bet for Pizza or Italian food.

A fun place for lunch or dinner is the Fishwife on Sunset at the end of nearby Pacific Grove. It is worth the trip just to see the Lighthouse and rugged Asilomar Beach, Two other choices in Pacific Grove are Passionfish  for fish and Fandango for fun Medterranean. Easy parking at all three.  

I have no choices on Fisherman’s Wharf. Most of Monterey is somewhat of a dining disappointment because it is very touristy. I have mentioned the two near Cannery Row and my only other choice is Montrio which has been highly acclaimed for many years but may have peaked. Parking is difficult.

Asian and ethnic choices are suspect in the area for those of us used to the luxury of the Sushi, Chinese and Thai restaurants that surround us in Ventura County. On the other hand you may be shocked by the freshness of vegetables served at most of the recommended restaurants.  Enjoy.

                                           Lodging Survey

Again from the top. Post Ranch in the heart of Big Sur is about a thousand !!!! per night and those that have stayed there say it is worth it. Nearby Ventana is also upscale but much less. Both however are a schlep if your goal is to prospect the Monterey-Carmel Peninsula.

My number one choice for a true Monterey-Carmel area upscale experience is located South of Carmel. It is The Tickle Pink Inn on a cliff overlooking Point Lobos to the North and Big Sur to the South.   Every room is a view room and if a stay there doesn’t improve your marriage, you are in need of a marriage counselor. Rooms start at $300 plus. It is adjacent to the Highlands Inn which is OK but most rooms don’t have a view even though prices are up there.

The lodging choices in Camel are plentiful and staying there offers the advantage of being able to walk in town during the day without facing parking meter problems and walking to any of the local dining choices. It can save you a lot of time.  La Playa and L’Auberge in town are on the high scale but perhaps a best bet is to check out InnsByTheSea. They have 5 locations in downtown Carmel at a range of prices and options.

If you are a golfer, prices on the 17 mile drive of Pebble Beach and Spanish Bay for lodging are very, very high and green fees are heart-stopping.   Consider Carmel Valley Golf Packages  with Bernardus, Quail Lodge and Carmel Valley Ranch.

I can think of no reason to stay in Monterey or even Pacific Grove.  In almost 40 years I have found Carmel and Carmel Highlands to be a logical choice.

Finally if you have any question, please e-mail me via the address on the Home Page and surely contact me with your thoughts when you return.