... and Then There is "Onyx"
 

Veteran travelers realized a long time ago that dining in the majority of American upscale hotel restaurants is usually an escapade in high prices, disinterested service and mediocre food mitigated to a minor degree by a pleasant, comfortable and convenient environment.

Almost every hotel in this country still uses “Place Utility”, a specific economic term that enables them to exploit the above negatives and reinforce the positives.   "Place Utility” means that the services or products offered to you come from the sole provider of what you need…  in the place you are at. It is a monopoly of convenience. Dodger Stadium is a supreme example of the same complete utilization of “Place Utility” applied to hot dogs and beer and of course parking. .

This is contrary to what has been a long tradition in European  hotels. At every level they pride themselves on their cuisine. For many years the number one destination in the world for both great food and lodging has been the “Les Crayeres” chateau in Reims which featured the famous “Restaurant Boyer”.  Tourists would classically take the train from Paris to Reims and stay overnight just to dine at “Boyer”. The same applies to “Le Crocodile” in the leading hotel in Strasbourg.  There are many, many others.  

The reason that we bring all this up is that…the always ahead of the curve leader in the upscale hospitality industry is the Four Seasons Hotel Group” out of Canada and now open in Westlake. And thus they were the first in the United States to actually combine fine lodging with fine dining....successfully.

And that was more than 30 years ago. They  opened a Ritz Carlton franchise in the Water Tower complex in Chicago with a great chef in a wonderful room with great service  in a wonderful hotel. It was an instantaneous smash hit. Since then the restaurant has been usually rated “best in the city”, challenged occasionally only by newer powerhouses such as “Charlie Trotter’s” and “Tru”.  The latter is a wonderful dining experience!

Success at other locations has been more difficult for the Four Seasons and all the other luxury giants.  Only independent hotels in San Francisco have really pulled it off consistently.  They did it by turning their dining rooms over to an individual top chef.  Postrio, Masa’s, The Fifth Floor and others have thus emerged on their own in The City’s hotels. Even the giant St. Francis Hotel finally succumbed by offering space to super chef Mark Mina, originally from Aqua in San Francisco, but now he is all over Las Vegas and the Bay Area. Mina must have 6 or 7 clones.

Thus our curiosity was piqued when The Four Seasons opened locally to great fanfare. However, we stayed away for quite a time since reports came back of disorganized and nervous service combined with an inconsistent kitchen and high prices.  A review under those conditions would be have been premature and unfair to both the restaurant ... and the diner.  Now, we are more than ever convinced that early decision was correct.  You see, we recently visited the restaurant for dinner.

The Four Seasons Westlake is an imposing but perhaps unexciting edifice rising above the intersection of the101 and Lindero Canyon. You enter via a long driveway that is also the entrance to the headquarters of Dole, run by that other Murdoch, David who is also the boss spa-man and proprietor of this Four Seasons Wellness Spa etc&etc.

5 valet attendants leaped to our aid ready to simultaneously open all four doors and the trunk (if needed). Disappointedly they noted that there were only 2 of us, just for dinner. That may have been their exercise for the day.  

We entered the understated hotel lobby which was heavy on marble but light on guests. It turns out that the restaurant is one flight down a long and large circular staircase.  It would have been beneficial if the valet parkers had taken the time to direct us to the elevator.

We were greeted at the entrance to the dining room by a very pleasant and very young man. He cheerfully took us to a window table that looked out at the remarkable waterfall, garden  and stone sculpture area.  The room is designed in an elegant but very conservative style with widely spaced tables. It is very quiet. There is a minor feeling of a time warp. 

To get to the point however, you should be aware that this Four Seasons chef knows how to cook!  Sandro Gamba has the chops and the resume to go with it. He has wielded his knives and been at the stoves of some of the finest restaurants in Europe... and The United States. Gamba’s stated goal is to obtain the finest and freshest ingredients available locally and transform them into simple but taste tantalizing culinary works of art. He has succeeded. 

Thus with an obvious nudge from the big Spa bossman, Gamba is able to deliver a somewhat limited, but interesting dinner menu of light and healthy comestibles that transcend  “Spa” food. Most are unusual, delicious and creatively plated.

However if finny fish or crustaceans are not your style, Hampton’s may not be your choice. There are 9 starters, 6 of them are from the ocean and there are 2 salads and 1 soup. There are 12 main courses, 7 of which also came out of the water.

If there were any specials the waiter did not mention them. Service was attentive, pleasant and certainly neither arrogant nor tense but all the personnel did appear to be somewhat below the level I would expect from the main dining room of The Four Seasons..

The Wine List is remarkably fairly priced, especially for an upscale hotel although pretty much limited to prosaic choices from California. Strangely the Wine Globalization explosion has paradoxically been ignored by this representative of the Internationally acclaimed  Four Seasons.

We started with an “amuse bouche” served on a clever special rack that held a small vial of wonderful red pepper tomato soup and individual one bite spoons of a crab salad and a braised endive with aged balsamic vinegar.

My wife then chose a beautifully presented Grilled Baby Octopus Salad with Aged Balsamic Vinaigrette. ($12) It was very fresh and flavorful.  I had an equally interesting fresh Dungeness Lump Crab in a Cucumber Cannelloni with a Grapefruit Citrus Vinaigrette ($18) a wonderful tasting treat.

This was followed by a main course of Thyme Scented Halibut with Wild Green and White Asparagus Ragout and Ricotta Dumplings ($34). It was perfectly and moistly cooked and seemed as if it had been caught that morning. I tasted it.  We both loved it. 

But I also love Risotto, Saffron and Mussels. They were combined in an attractive  bowl with shaved authentic Reggiano Parmigiano ($26). The combination worked but was perhaps a bit heavy on the Saffron. I still finished it off.

We ended the meal  with a single order of delicious home made Ice Cream and Fruit ($8) that was certainly enough for two.

Among other appetizers are Chilled Maine Lobster Salad, Gazpacho Vegetable Relish, Golden Tomato Gazpacho ($18), Sunchoke Soup with Goat Cheese-Basil Lumpia and Chive Coulis ($9) and a remarkable (we saw it at another table) Summer Asparagus Celebration- Caramelized, Poached and Shaved ($12).

Red Meat eaters can select Prime Rib of Beef for 2 with a Mushroom-Fava Bean Ragout, Fingerling Potatoes and Smoked Bacon ($90) or Colorado Lamb Rack with Provencal Squash Galette and Olive Jus ($36). There is a Shelton’s Farm Chicken with a Roasted Breast and a Sherry Wine Braised Leg with Sweet Corn, Fingerling Potatoes-Okra Ragout ($26).

It may be a secret to most but FrankAboutFood.com readers should know that from now through September 27th, Hampton’s and The Onyx are offering a 50 % discount for parties of 2 to 4 guests on Mondays through Thursdays on food only. Be sure to mention this or you will be billed full price.

and So....Then There is Onyx:

If it really is important for you to tell someone that you have dined at the Four Seasons,  Onyx may be a better choice than the Hampton's for numerous reasons.  The main areas of Onyx seemingly have seceded from The Murdoch imposed perpetual time warp. While much of the rest of the hotel seems to be dozing. Onyx appears very alive and rocking. . 

The patio, the bar  (see pic) and the Sushi Bar-restaurant are manned by a group of relaxed, attractive and competent personnel at all points. They actually seem to be enjoying themselves.

At this time of the year in early evening,  the elevated patio with its view of the gardens and waterfall may be one of the most pleasant venues within 20 miles. You can have cocktails, sushi or even a complete Japanese meal al fresco........or in the combo sushi-bar-dining room.

It is manned by the personable Masa Shimakawa who has valid credentials from Japan, Canada and The Park Hyatt- Chicago. Then there are the prices. The  truly classical nigiri sushi including the highly desired uni is at $8 and Toro now in short supply is $12. Then there are the  inexpensive (and filling) taka standards such as the "dreaded California Roll" .

Masa's unusual and creative main course entrees featuring fresh fish are certainly worth considering. Most are under $18. The ambiences alone are worth the price. And at 50% off Mon-Thurs, Onyx is probably the best short term value in sushi in the United States.

Maybe "The World"  It all  ends September 27.

If you want to avoid the $5 parking and tip, be aware that there is a free parking structure to the right as you enter the driveway.

Hampton’s....... or Onyx at the Four Seasons
Two Dole Drive    Westlake Village      818-575-3000      Self Parking
Valet Parking $5 with Dinner Validation         Most Credit Cards 
Reservations Essential        Casual Business Attire