However as the community matured, people began to understand the appeal of fine Napolitano thin crust pizza. The craze for creative Pasta ensued. Serious Italian restaurants  appeared. Tuscany, Marcello's, Ritrovo-Rustico, Dolce Vita, even the quirky Gino's took local Italian food to  new, often superb levels introducing such classic dishes as Osso Buco and Cioppino. 

But Chinese and Mexican restaurants then slowly disappeared as their locations were then  overwhelmed by the Sushi Bar steamroller. 25 years ago Akio’s on the Janss Mall was one of two Sushi Bars in all of Ventura County. Today there may be twenty in the Agoura, Westlake, T.O. and Newbury Park area alone,. Sadly,  ½ of them are of suspect California Roll Cloners  employing unskilled and unauthentic faux Sushi chefs.

It takes 10 years  of arduous training...... in Japan.......... to earn the title of Sushiya. Having an Asian look alone won't cut the mustard.

The "Snagging Some Sushi"  trend was triggered by that next generation of younger and perhaps more affluent Conejoites moving into town. Sushi is rather expensive... if you eat the real stuff. Today, announcing that you are a serious  sushi eater implies some high credit card limits. 

After a 10 year run, the Sushi experience  was then followed, only recently, by the next but logical   foodie status setters.  From the olden days of merely  Black Angus and Corrigan’s there now are another  6 recent steak house entries (4 in the last year) from the suspect Claim Jumper level to the elegant Mastro’s. But that could have been expected. The Conejo has developed an aura of upscale homes and real estate wealth.

What can imply wealth  more than mentioning (casually, of course) that you recently had a Wagyu but still  domestic Kobe steak ($70-$80) at Chapter 8. Ironically you could be topped by a  more committed and higher roller who downed  a $160 real Kobe 8 ouncer at Wolfgang Puck’s Cut in Beverly Hills. It's true!!! Authentic Kobe Beef imported from Japan now goes at $20 per oz. !!!!

So, considering  the above, it became a mystery to me to try to figure out from where this recent East Coast ethnic Delimania developed ??  Can you give me the answer?? I just don't get it.

It  becomes more unfathomable when one realizes that most deli main courses are priced at a status-deflating $12 average. I do have a couple of ideas. But they may not be politically correct.

When Agoura Famous Deli was closed for remodeling for two months a while back, only  one semi-legitimate ethnic deli remained. Two other delis had previously failed in North Ranch Plaza and another in Agoura. That pseudo"Deli"  on Westlake Blvd. is really masquerading. It purports to be a deli, But is actually a coffee shop that serves booze. No one seemed to know the difference or even cared. .... until this past year.  

Since then, Agoura Famous Deli was reopened, Brent’s opened spectacularly in Westlake to one hour wait crowds and Pickles opened in Newbury Park. All this activity somehow created unsuspected  Delimania on the part of the denizens of the Conejo.

We received a myriad of calls, e- mails and notes from locals about when we were going to review all these “exciting” places; and how they rated  with each other or the legendaries........ Langer's downtown or Brent;s in Northridge. We  reviewed Roxy’s long ago and recently did Brent’s. So now comes the Pickles event and that  may have just solved the mystery. See below .

As a footnote, you should know that the true ethnic New York delis are only somewhat about food. The famous names in New York such as Lindy’s, Carnegie, Stage and Katz's (I have been in all) are perhaps more noted for the saucy but very competent waitresses and arrogant and equally competent waiters and counter men. In fact all those delis have a theatrical and wry East Cost sense of humor about them that is hard to define. It is like entering a large scale and hectic  episode of Seinfeld where even the nervous Kramer would feel relaxed and comfortable.

The type of personnel required to create this effect is very difficult to find in the Conejo. But Pickle’s tries. It  does create its own deli mood with large comic celebrity faces on the walls, a very humorous logo and wise guy food jokes at the bottom pages of the menu. Further, though the restaurant always seems busy, all the personnel from the manager, greeter, waitresses and busboys seem to be playful and having fun rather feeling pressure. That does not exist in many dining spots around town. The room is bright and airy with comfortable booths at the walls and an open kitchen. Those Red shirted servers move easily and quickly through the room.

And Pickle’s has everything else including that now  apparent major attraction ..... (and perhaps the solution to the above dilemma).... for both  the diners and the "knoshers"  of the Conejo......... selection. 

There are almost 400 (Count 'em) entries on the menu including Chinese Stir Fries, Italian Pasta, Middle Eastern and Mexican Specialties along with all the "authentic ethnic"  basics. If you can’t find something to eat at Pickles then you had better check your pulse.

As soon as you are seated a smiling bus boy drops plates on the table containing pickles, fresh rye bread, freshly toasted bagel slices and butter. Our waitress one night was the very amiable Cherie, one of the few true classic deli waitresses that we have observed in our 28 years in the Conejo.  She knew her stuff and immediately made us comfortably at home. . 

Breakfast is a very big draw at delis and Pickle’s has about 90 choices. Every egg and fish or combo imaginable is available. Be forewarned!!! Weekends are jammed through brunch.

There are 70 sandwiches including 12 Hamburgers, and 22 salads.  But who goes to a deli with 400 choices and winds up with a salad?...or in fact, a hamburger. Then there are the classic chicken noodle soups with kreplach or matzo ball. There's  borscht, clam chowder and amazingly … only one soup of the day. Cups are about $4 and bowls are $5.50

In spite of the 400 choices, it turns out that as in all delis, much more than half of the orders placed are sandwiches from lunch through  evening. The star in this group of 70 choices and another  test of a del authenticity is The Reuben which is classically prepared with Corned Beef or Pastrami, melted Swiss cheese and sauerkraut served on Fresh Rye bread. 2 sides are included... There are other Rueben meat choices, but why?

.  There are 55 main entrees including the ethnic brisket, sweet and sour cabbage rolls and knockwurst and beans. The most expensive items on the menu are marinated skirt steak or top sirloin at $14.95. One wonders whether any one has ever ordered a steak medium rare at a deli?

If you have room for desert there are the prosaic deli basics of cheesecake, fudge cake and carrot cake at about $5.

The wine list is about what you would expect at any deli at $4.95 a glass.

Do not take the management for granted. It is the  husband and wife team of David and Nurit Lovi along with very sophisticated  and erudite cousin  Alex Lovi. These three each  have about 25 years of experience and  also own the Country Deli in The Valley and Agoura Famous  in guess where?

All are  very hands on at each location. They put in the hours and it shows. Obviously they also know what they are doing. The only question is which one of these three is the frustrated standup comic? Daughter Natalie manages in Newbury Park. She is cool, competent and vivacious. She seems as if she has been in the biz since she was 12.  I’m betting she was.

Pickles Deli & Restaurant -

1940 Newbury Rd.  Newbury Park          (805) 480-4800                Most Credit Cards

        Easy and Free Shopping Center Parking       http://www.picklesdeli.com

                                   Very Extensive Catering and Takeout

Frankly Noted

Serge Bonnet, the amiable, non-stop energy machine  and  proprietor of Cafe Provencal adjacent to the Civic Plaza is at it again. 

Saturday July 14 is Bastille Day in France. Cafe Provencal is celebrating this French version of the 4th of July with a special 4 course meal and entertainment at $45 per person with dancing after 9. Late evening outside seating is also available at that time for those who just want to party. Desserts and beverages with then be offered. Reservations are essential and costumes are suggested. There will be contests, prizes and gifts. Whatta deal!!!!!!

Then Serge celebrates his second ride this season on the now drug clean (hopefully) Tour de France on Monday July 30 with a very special culinary extravaganza. It is a 5 course meal with 5 matching wines at $60. Seating is limited. Call now at 805-496-7121. It starts at 6:30

Finally Serge peaks the entire summer season with a very upscale 8 course wine and food tasting menu featuring the wines of Robert Hall. It is $70,  A similar meal elsewhere would be in the $100 price range.

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