Roy's

Roy’s

Now -

More Than Just a Name

The name shown above could come as a surprise to many long term readers who know that we have often (snobbishly, perhaps) reported that “We don’t do chains” and Roy’s today, paradoxically, certainly has now arrived in that dreaded category. It in fact is renowned world-wide. It was acquired a while back by the Florida based OSI food group which lists also an ubiquitous mid-priced "family"steak house. OmiGod!!!

As you know, my principle concern about chains is that they are for eating rather than dining. There is a big difference!!! Chain restaurants universally seem to feature “controlled mediocrity” offering unsubtle imitations of fine food that are not awful..... just not very good.

This is because with very rare exceptions there are no real chefs manning the stoves; not even cooks. Just robotic food preparers or meat flippers. As is often asked “Who is in the kitchen cooking?”

This assembly line food is then usually served in a noisy, crowded, uncomfortable area that seems to specifically employ scantily clad college coed amateurs most of whom seem named Tiffany, Crystal or Amber. Or so it seems on all the fast food (and beer) TV commercials during March Madness One wonders about a male employment discrimination lawsuit. Oh yeah, they're the leerers.

After the chicks, the other main chain eating attraction is large hi-carb portions at beckoning prices designed for the doggy baggers that hope for a couple of free meals the next night. True dining adventures and originality are certainly not part of the business plan.

“Not that there is anything wrong with that.”

Of course this is where the real story begins. And so to start we must announce a very serious disclaimer. We have known creator Roy Yamaguchi very well for more than two decades.

When we met Roy, he was a very young, highly acclaimed, but recently unemployed chef. His high concept and wonderfully unique restaurant on trendy La Cienega, financed by some Beverly Hills orthodontists had just gone under. (A dentist that understands food, no !!! Chewing, biting down and gargling, yes!!!) No one, including the dentists, ever seemed to be able understand exactly what happened. Neither did Roy.

Thus at that time, Roy was planning to move back to his roots in Hawaii and open what was then a modest and solo “Roy’s of Hawaii” on Oahu. It and a follow-up on Maui quickly became the two best known restaurants on the Islands. The rest is history.

So now here is a real miracle!!! Amazingly, Roy’s (of Woodland Hills and elsewhere) eschews all of the above chain stigmas and.....delivers legitimate, upscale, and original dining at acceptable prices. There is an exciting to watch open kitchen tightly overseen by local owner chef Tom Voss. It is attached to a sophisticated venue of white table clothed booths and tables managed by his partner Mark Damico. There marks much of the difference.

You feel comfortable the moment you walk in the door and are warmly greeted . Service is very amiably and professionally delivered by tastefully attired, knowledgeable and competent young male and female adults. Suddenly you have found absolute upscale dining comfort locally..

As with “chain” the term Hawaiian is also no longer completely in play as Roy’s menu goes well beyond that limited pineapple and parasol category. While there are many sophisticated island plates (emphasis is obviously on fish), Roy’s also offers a true fusion of styles that expertly incorporates the tastes of Japan, China, Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia. The menu is not only unique but is skillfully executed in both preparation and presentation from beginning to end. .

Appetizers run that Asian gamut from Ginger Beef Dumplings, Teppanyaki Shrimp Sticks, Spicy Ahi Sushi Roll, Karaage Crusted Calamari to Smoked Mozzarella Tomato Caprese. All of this is offered as Roy’s Canoe Appetizer for two at $26. It’s worth it.

There are also Szechuan Grilled St. Louis (??) Pork Ribs, Lobster Potstickers and White Corn Shrimp Ceviche appetizers priced from $10 to $13.

Ten Ma Ke Kai entrees from the sea, range from Hibachi Style Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($21), Koo Ju Jeng Grilled Black Tiger Prawns with Bok Choy ($22) plus Butterfish, Ono, Ahi, Mahi Mahi, Day Boat Scallops, Tilapia and Basil Pesto Crusted Walu, priced from $21 to $28. This is the most sophisticated offering of fresh fish that I have seen on any local menu with the exception of The Water Grill and Providence. These restaurants are both are about 50% higher priced than Roy's.

2/3 of a menu page offers sushi and sashimi. But what appears to be a small sushi bar is not, The sushi chef working the station is so busy cranking out dozens of elaborate Hawaiian style high concept rolls ($9-$24) for the always busy main dining room that he provides none of the communication that you anticipate at a complete sushi bar.

If you are among those that actually think California roll is real sushi then you may be satisfied and even excited by the Hawaiian style offerings. However, If you are serious about sushi and expect the classics such as uni, toro, anago or hotategai, they are not part of the inventory. Only the very basics such as Tuna, Yellowtail, Salmon, eel. crab and Halibut are available and they seem to be used exclusively for rolls.

In fact, Roys must know their clientele. We sat at this bar area for 90 minutes and did not see a single order for classic "ngiri" sushi in even those basic styles. Not one.

However the bar location had some merit for us since it provided a clear view of the manic open kitchen which is like watching a free filmed documentary about a line chef. You will be astounded.

If you are reasonably hungry, Roy’s offers a complete three course meal of appetizer, entrée and desert for $35.95. It varies and is an adventuresome and real value.

There are 7 offerings to satisfy “the Red Meat” eaters, but why bother?

The 200 bottle prox global wine list is extremely sophisticated, vintage dated and is one that you would be fortunate to find at the touted Westside or Melrose Avenue $100 per person restaurants. Roy’s pricing is definitely friendlier with many choices well under $50. Ask about the great values in Reds and Whites from Australia and New Zealand.

It is evident from all of this that Yamaguchi and his upper and local echelon are paying serious attention. Their meticulous concern at every level beyond just the menu keeps his eponymous restaurants from becoming “chained” to the controlled mediocrity…. along with the obvious juvenile coed overtones of other food purveyors. It is an effort that I have rarely seen elsewhere.

While Roy’s is only 20 minutes on the 101 from Westlake Blvd to Topanga, it seems to be one of those places where in the end you can’t get there; you have to go some place else first. You can see Roy’s from the corner of Topanga and Victory but you cannot get into the parking lot driving North. When you make the reservation call, ask them for specific instructions. It’s a bit tricky.

Roy’s 6361 Topanga Blvd Woodland Hills Phone 818-888-4801 Valet Parking Open for Dinner Nightly at 5:30 Reservations Requested Most Credit Cards

Frankly Noted

For the first time since that popularity contest called Zagat's has been published, 6 of the 12 very worthy Conejo restaurants have finally been recognized with listings in the Los Angeles Edition. There are still at least 6 to go. Ask me.

In the present case, local credit is due to the management skills of the owners combined with talented chefs. There is Tuscany, justifiably, rated as one of the best in all California within the crowded and highly competitive Italian category. Owner Tomasso Barletta of Bari and Executive Chef Maurizio Ronzoni from Lake Como deserve kudos for that.

Then there is Leila's, unbelievably, perhaps, rated equal (???) to Spago's for California Cuisine. Give credit to the very capable and amiable owner Peyman Afshar for that, and for keeping the manic but brilliant chef Richie De Mane happy, super creative and healthy. Just watching Richie in the small open kitchen is worth the price of admission.

There is the super cool owner- manager Tom Sweet partnering with veteran Chef Nick Blinoff to offer consistently satisfying Mediterranean cuisine at the very attractive Mandevilla.

Cafe 14, also serving sophisticated California Fusion in Agoura has now made the list with the kitchen manned by a very competent espoused owner chef team of Claudine and Neil Kramer. See our review on this personable pair in our "Second Chances Feature."

If you just did the math, you only came up with 4 rather than six. But remember that the recently arrived Mastro's and Brent's had previous accreditation.

With the recent additions. We now have many more fine restaurants in this extended Conejo area than the entire San Fernando Valley, all of Orange County and San Diego County and are closing in on the very large Westside area of Los Angeles from La Brea to the Sea.

In California now it is San Francisco, West Los Angeles, The Conejo Valley with downtown Los Angeles trailing as a distant fourth with the exception of Chinatown. Santa Barbara has moved up and down. Citronelle is gone and the Wine Cask is overrated.

Further a broad spectrum exists here with amazing excellence in Japanese-Sushi, Italian, Pizza, French, Chinese (on the outskirts), Sea Food, Steak (now), Fusion, Californian, Continental, Deli (now) and perhaps 2 or 3 fairly good Mexican Choices. At least 15 great choices in all.