Home Up Feature Story Wine Wisdom Second Chances

Overflowing In The
Conejo

The Mediterraneo

For many years, The Conejo seemed to be a culinary wasteland; at least according to Zagat’s, the somewhat suspect "popularity" poll and most of the other SoCal restaurant rater-reviewers. Until recently, only one local restaurant qualified for a Zagat’s listing.

The L.A. Times  otherwise extremely competent, Irene Virbila still treks to Orange County. Yet she is rarely seen in our County in spite of the very fine long term restaurants in this area.  

OC is still and may always be an accumulation of fast food spots interspersed with over-hyped and overpriced tourist joints that depend on views of the water rather than  fine food. The two very best restaurants in OC closed recently for lack of business. What can that tell you about the palate of that region? After their departure, the food is mostly downhill with the possible exception of that one very expensive hotel dining room in Laguna NIguel supposedly under the direction of San Francisco-Las Vegas  Super Chef MIchael Mina.

The Daily News’ (geriatric leaning)  Larry Lipson appears glued to a chair in Van Nuys and often seems to operate via remote control. Elmer Dills (actually geriatric) wrote a positive review of a top notch Camarillo Chinese restaurant (justifiably) a year ago. That was about it for his forays into the Wild West. Period.

Even the veteran reviewer for our county regional paper seems to blithely concentrate on the deadly 3 Cs, Calorie-Carb, Cholesterol laden, coffee shops, sandwich shops, pastry shops or breakfast joints in exotic places like Port Hueneme or Santa Paula (Santa Paula?). She almost never ventures over the “dreaded” Conejo grade where most of the “serious” dining restaurants are located.   

But, things have really changed rather dramatically in the 21st century; The Westlake, Thousand Oaks, Newbury Park and Agoura area statistics must have recently exploded on some sort of a national demographics and average family income report.  Herds of big name hotels and dining establishments have checked in  the last few years.

Now, Zagat’s finally high rates 6 (count ‘em- 6) Conejo restaurants in its current  Los Angeles area paperback but still  missing are at least three or four  sophisticated Euro style spots and two very authentic sushi bars;  all of whom rival the notoriously hyped  LA Westsiders and surpass almost everything in the San Fernando Valley.  

This expansion of upscale local dining opportunities obviously created a competitive dilemma and challenge for the  hospitality management team from The Westlake Inn facility of which the adjacent Le Café was, and Bogey’s is, a part.

However, John Notter, the principal owner-manager of the entire Westlake enterprise is one of the pioneer landowners and developers of Westlake itself  and its unique imposing island community since the 60s.  Thus he understands and is attracted to excellence and risk taking.

Notter had already spent big bucks on a facelift for the venerable and very luxurious Westlake Inn itself. So he decided “Why stop now?” Let’s face it; his enterprise has a tremendous built-in edge over all these recent competitors. He has land, tax and building costs that go back 40 years. Those were the days.

This had made it a slam dunk for the Westlake based "home team" to provide superior quality and value at all levels. Over the years, they have consistently shown that they know how to successfully play this game.

So after completing the work at The Inn, they embarked upon a complete physical and culinary fast break attack on the beleaguered former Le Café. First they changed the name to Mediterraneo. But they clearly needed much more of a niche than just that. As you well know, The Conejo now has as many Euro, Seafood, Fusion, Italian, Chinese, Mexican,  Sushi-Japanese  dispensers as the area can tolerate and at different environment levels. 

The first step was a complete redo of the physical premises which had remained unchanged for many years. Le Café seemed never sure of whether it had a café or a white table cloth ambience. The front room had the look of a coffee shop. The central room had a more upscale look but with no real identity. The very pleasant open rear patio was a popular lunch choice with the inception of spring and great for romantic summer dinners often enhanced by live smooth jazz.  But it was deadly and often unused in the fall and winter.  

There are now no white table clothes in sight. Instead the immediate impression is of a very up to date and stylish bistro serving both lunch and dinner.  Breakfast on  the weekends.

As you enter, you encounter on the right, a contemporary combination dining drinking bar that has become a popular mode in recent years. On the left are intimate seating nooks for imbibing, a casual lunch or  snack.

The remodeled front dining room still retains the booth comfort that appeals to many along with a few banquettes and free standing tables. It has a relaxed feeling.

The main dining area is a knockout!!! It is in a class with the top three rooms in the entire county. Sophisticated “au courant” banquettes dominate along with a large booth for a groups of 6 to 10. A vaulted sky-lighted ceiling with special fixtures and a large fireplace complete a rather luxurious yet warm  feel.  The outside patio area has been enclosed for year round use, but can be opened when the weather is hospitable to provide the old time Alfresco feeling that has been popular for so long. 

These five comfortable yet slightly different ambiences at a single location clearly signaled the first portion of that unique yet all encompassing “niche” for which Notter and his team was searching.  All of this is overseen by veteran restaurateur Sandro Coppola from the illustrious Southeastern Italian food city of Bari.  On a clear day if you look to the right from the port of Bari, you may see cruise ships cavorting in the Eastern Mediterranean.

Coppola escaped from Mastro's Steak House in Beverly Hills where he had been required to maintain order between  the stiletto heeled, tight leather panted Scarlett or silk jacketed, alligator shod  Brad  wanabees in their conflicts with the equally confused, pretentious and arrogant wait-staff.  Coming to Westlake for Sandro must have seemed like paid in full vacation.

Then  came the quest for  more  important and certainly more elusive food niche.

Mario Batali is perhaps the most visible chef in the country (Oh yeah there is that cook, Rachel Ray) but he is probably, overall, the most competent, perceptive… and honest. Thus Mario says “that the most satisfying dining takes place when the chef selects the best and freshest local ingredients and does the least possible damage to them”. I agree with Mario. This is the simple and beautiful essence of Italian cooking. That seems to be the approach of executive Chef Edward Cruz.

While Mediterraneo does primarily feature many plates from all parts of the Mediterranean boot, it is not, however, a classic Italian restaurant. Thus Cruz, a veteran of 18 years with the Hyatt indicated that as Mario suggested above, he will also  emphasize and seek out the freshest and best local ingredients available for his menus.

Then he seeks to  prepare these ingredients to offer the very satisfying yet sophisticated comfort foods that stretch from Spain to Turkey along with other all time world-wide favorites.

The non- ethnic choices include such as chicken noodle soup, hamburgers, Reuben sandwiches, crab cakes, meat loaf  and of course the now ubiquitous New York, Filet and Ribeye steaks finished in a woodburning oven.

 The menu is still evolving.


Comfortable Casual Dining Room  at Mediterraneo

There are 34 main luncheon choices including four 9” thin crust Neapolitan style pizzas at $8.95 to $11.95 cooked in that wood-burning oven, 5 pastas at $8.95 for Arrabiatta to $14.95 for Linguine Vongole; a Pastrami Panini, French Dip, Club plus 9 other sandwich classics. All sandwiches include a choice of French Fries, fresh fruit or Mediterraneo house salad. There are 10 salads from $6.95 to $13.75 including Cobb, Caesar, Nicoise, and Chinese Chicken. Each dish that we observed, clearly had been given special attention and was beautifully plated.

At dinner, chicken is offered 4 ways from $12.95 to $18.95. There is classic Parmesan, Ripieno, Chicken Pot Pie and basic Roasted. Three pastas are added in the evening including Lobster Ravioli at $18.95.  Steaks are among the most expensive items on the menu with that 14 0z choice Ribeye served with fresh seasonal vegetables and roasted fingerling potatoes at $27.95.


Mediterraneo's Banquette Seating-Bistro Dining Room

One night my wife raved about a beautifully prepared Burratta Salad (9.75) with fresh Mozzarella wrapped in Prosciutto on a bed of Arugula and Fresh sliced pears with a light Balsamic reduction sauce followed by a special that night of Lake Superior Whitefish over perfectly prepared Risotto. The fish was moist and perfectly prepared. The risotto had that creamy crunch.

I ordered a 3 year old favorite of mine; the now very popular fresh red and gold beet salad on baby frise lettuce with home toasted walnuts and gorgonzola cheese (7.25). I love steamed beets. 

 

My main course was Paella (20.95). I am a big fan there as well. It was a substantial serving of Prawns, Manila Clams, Mussels, Calamari and Fresh Fish served with a saffron sauce and over saffron rice. It was pleasant. But I was somewhat disappointed by the lack of classic earthy Spanish Paella heartiness.  It was missing the sausage and chicken which I had expected  which is then accompanied by a stronger saffron impact.

I  reread the menu and realized that I had missed the term “Seafood” preceding Paella.  As they say in Italian “Mea Culpa”.

There are 9 desserts from all over and they are all $6.25. We split a wonderful  Florentine Art which was a White Chocolate Mousse served in a delicate caramelized almond bowl with seasonal berries.

There is Tiramisu from Italy, Crème Brulee from France, Cheese Cake from Brooklyn (?) and Strudel from Hungary. The latter two are definitely not near the Mediterranean.

Espresso was perfectly prepared and served hot.

Thus, Mediterraneo absolutely appears to have pretty much achieved that elusive second niche that they needed. It is a value approach to finely prepared and interesting food served by well trained personnel in an ambience that could be termed as “Bistro Plus”. And that is a truly unique niche for Ventura County.

Wine prices are about average and the list still seems to be a work in process. Offered are a reasonably broad range of styles with emphasis on Italian Reds and domestic Chardonnay (now over-planted, over hyped and overrated). There is large choice of Pinot Noir, deservedly  from “Sideways” fame but they are surprisingly short on the emerging Sauvignon Blanc which is a valid value and  taste alternative for the "I'll have a glass of Chardonnay" crowd. 

Corkage is an extremely fair $15. If you have a decent selection of wine in the closet especially if it has had some aging, this might be an intelligent choice.

The restaurant also seems to be following the trend of others in the industry by offering generous 8 oz. servings in a carafe at fair prices within their wine by the glass program. The selection is ........ ........adequate.... but it does give the diners the benefit of ordering the appropriate wine to match the food selection at acceptable prices.


Dine or Drink at Mediterraneo Bar

Mediterraneo    32037 Agoura Road , Westlake Village  818-889-9105
Open For Dinner Nightly     Open For Lunch Monday-Saturday
Reservations Desirable  Most Credit Cards  Adjacent Easy Free Parking



Frankly Noted - Gossip Around The Conejo

Very, Very Big News

As noted above, for the first time since that  popularity contest called Zagat's has been published,  6 of the 12 very worthy Conejo restaurants have finally been recognized with listings in the Los Angeles Edition.  There are still at least 6 to go.   Ask me.

In the present case, local credit is due to the management skills of the owners combined with talented chefs. There is Tuscany, justifiably, rated as one of the best in all California within  the crowded and highly competitive Italian category. Owner Tomasso Barletta of Bari  and Executive Chef Maurizio Ronzoni from Lake Como deserve kudos for that.

Then there is Leila's,  unbelievably, perhaps,  rated equal (???)  to Spago's for California Cuisine. Give credit to the very capable and amiable owner Peyman Afshar for that, and for keeping the manic but brilliant chef Richie De Mane happy, super creative and healthy. Just watching Richie in the small open kitchen is worth the price of admission.

There is the super cool owner- manager Tom Sweet partnering with veteran Chef Nick Blinoff to offer consistently satisfying Mediterranean cuisine at the very attractive Mandevilla.

Cafe 14, also serving sophisticated  California Fusion  in Agoura has now made the list with the kitchen manned by a very competent espoused owner chef  team of Claudine and Neil Kramer.  See our review on this personable pair in our "Second Chances Feature."

If you just did the math, you only came up with 4 rather than six. But remember that the recently arrived Mastro's and Brent's had previous accreditation.

Openings and Closings!!!

Tryst- Now admitted to be completely closed. The original Rendez-vous had been allowed to run down physically and culinarily (Can that be a word?) by the original low energy and essentially incompetent son of the French owner. It was much  more than the supposedly sophisticated new manager-owner was willing to recognize or admit. It will take two- three hundred thousand dollars to bring it up to any acceptable standards and get rid of the odor of mold. Why bother? The light cosmetics that were applied were unable to overcome the serious and basic deficiencies. Employing as a chef, a  former  waitress who claimed a very suspect international resume  was also a serious failing.

Kohinoor- The only Indian restaurant in the Conejo located on Los Arboles just burned down completely.  The owner plans to rebuild immediately and completely.

With the recent additions. We now have many more fine restaurants in this extended Conejo area than the entire San Fernando Valley, all of Orange County and San Diego County  and are closing in on  the very large Westside area of Los Angeles from La Brea to the Sea.

In California now it is San Francisco, West Los Angeles, The Conejo Valley with downtown Los Angeles trailing as a distant fourth with the exception of Chinatown.  Santa Barbara has moved up and down. Citronelle is gone and the Wine Cask is overrated.

Further a broad spectrum exists here with amazing excellence in Japanese-Sushi, Italian, Pizza, French, Chinese (on the outskirts), Sea Food, Steak (now), Fusion, Californian, Continental, Deli (now) and perhaps 2 or 3 fairly good Mexican Choices. At least 15 great choices in all.