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Overflowing
In The
Conejo
The Mediterraneo
For
many years, The Conejo
seemed to be a culinary wasteland; at least according to Zagat’s,
the somewhat suspect
"popularity" poll and most of the other SoCal restaurant rater-reviewers.
Until recently, only one local restaurant qualified for a Zagat’s listing.
The
L.A. Times
otherwise extremely
competent, Irene Virbila
still treks to
Orange County.
Yet she is rarely seen in
our
County in spite of the very fine long term restaurants in this area.
OC is
still
and may always be an accumulation of fast food spots interspersed with
over-hyped and overpriced tourist joints that depend on views of the water rather
than fine food. The two very best restaurants in OC closed
recently for lack of business. What can that tell you about the palate of
that region? After their departure, the food is mostly downhill with the
possible exception of that one very expensive hotel dining room in
Laguna NIguel
supposedly under the
direction of San Francisco-Las Vegas Super Chef
MIchael Mina.
The
Daily News’
(geriatric leaning) Larry
Lipson
appears glued to a chair in Van Nuys and often seems to operate via remote
control. Elmer Dills
(actually geriatric)
wrote a positive review of a top notch Camarillo Chinese restaurant
(justifiably) a year ago. That was about it for his forays into the Wild
West. Period.
Even
the veteran reviewer for our
county regional paper seems to blithely concentrate on the deadly 3 Cs,
Calorie-Carb, Cholesterol laden, coffee shops, sandwich shops, pastry shops
or breakfast joints in exotic places like Port Hueneme or Santa Paula (Santa
Paula?). She almost never ventures over the
“dreaded”
Conejo grade where most of the “serious” dining restaurants are located.
But,
things have really changed rather dramatically in the 21st
century; The Westlake, Thousand Oaks, Newbury Park and Agoura area
statistics must have recently exploded on some sort of a national
demographics and average family income report. Herds of big name hotels and
dining establishments have checked in the last few years.
Now,
Zagat’s finally
high rates
6
(count ‘em- 6) Conejo restaurants in its current Los Angeles area paperback
but still missing are at least three or four sophisticated Euro
style spots and two
very
authentic
sushi bars; all of whom rival the notoriously hyped LA Westsiders and
surpass almost everything in the San Fernando Valley.
This
expansion of upscale local dining opportunities obviously created a
competitive dilemma and challenge for the hospitality management team
from
The Westlake Inn
facility of which the adjacent
Le Café
was, and Bogey’s
is, a part.
However, John Notter,
the principal owner-manager of the entire Westlake enterprise is one of the pioneer landowners
and developers of Westlake itself and its unique imposing island
community since the 60s. Thus he understands and is attracted to excellence
and
risk taking.
Notter had already spent big bucks on a facelift for the venerable and very
luxurious Westlake Inn itself. So he decided “Why stop now?” Let’s face it;
his enterprise has a tremendous built-in edge over all these recent
competitors. He has land, tax and building costs that go back 40 years. Those
were the days.
This had
made it a slam dunk for the Westlake based "home team" to
provide superior quality and value at all levels. Over the years, they have
consistently shown that they know how to successfully play this game.
So
after completing the work at The Inn, they embarked upon a complete physical and culinary fast break attack on the
beleaguered former
Le Café.
First they changed the name to
Mediterraneo.
But they clearly needed much more of a niche than just that. As you
well know, The Conejo now has
as many Euro,
Seafood,
Fusion, Italian, Chinese, Mexican, Sushi-Japanese
dispensers as the area can tolerate and at different environment levels.
The
first step was a complete redo of the physical premises which had remained
unchanged for many years. Le Café seemed never sure of whether it had a café
or a white table cloth ambience. The front room had the look of a coffee
shop. The central room had a more upscale look but with no real identity.
The very pleasant open rear patio was a popular lunch choice with the
inception of spring and great for romantic summer dinners often enhanced by
live smooth jazz. But it was deadly and often unused in the fall and
winter.
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There
are now no
white table clothes in
sight. Instead the immediate impression is of a very up to date and stylish
bistro serving both lunch and dinner. Breakfast on the weekends.
As
you enter, you encounter on the right, a contemporary combination dining
drinking bar that has become a popular mode in recent years. On the left are
intimate seating nooks for imbibing, a casual lunch or snack.
The
remodeled front dining room still retains the booth comfort that appeals to
many along with a few banquettes and free standing tables. It has a relaxed feeling.
The
main dining area is a knockout!!! It is in a class with the top three rooms in
the entire county. Sophisticated “au courant” banquettes dominate along with
a large booth for a groups of 6 to 10. A vaulted sky-lighted ceiling with special
fixtures and a large fireplace complete a rather luxurious yet warm feel. The outside patio area has been enclosed for year round use,
but can be opened when the weather is hospitable to provide the old time
Alfresco feeling that has been popular for so long.
These
five comfortable yet slightly different ambiences at a single location clearly signaled the first portion of that unique yet all
encompassing “niche” for which Notter and his team was searching. All
of this is overseen by veteran
restaurateur Sandro
Coppola from the
illustrious Southeastern Italian food city of
Bari.
On a clear day if you look to the right from
the port of Bari, you may see cruise ships cavorting in the Eastern
Mediterranean.
Coppola escaped from
Mastro's Steak House in Beverly Hills where he had been required to maintain order
between the stiletto heeled, tight leather panted Scarlett or silk
jacketed, alligator shod Brad wanabees in their conflicts
with the
equally confused, pretentious and arrogant wait-staff. Coming to Westlake
for Sandro must have seemed like paid in full vacation.
Then
came the quest for more important and certainly more elusive food niche.
Mario Batali
is perhaps the most visible chef
in the country
(Oh yeah there is that cook,
Rachel Ray) but he is probably, overall, the most competent, perceptive… and
honest. Thus Mario says “that the most satisfying dining takes place when
the chef selects the best and freshest local ingredients and does the least
possible damage to them”. I agree with Mario. This is the simple and
beautiful essence of Italian cooking. That seems to be the approach of executive Chef
Edward Cruz.
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While Mediterraneo
does primarily feature many plates from all parts of the
Mediterranean boot, it is not, however, a classic Italian
restaurant. Thus Cruz,
a veteran of 18 years with the Hyatt indicated that as Mario
suggested above, he will also emphasize and seek out the freshest and best
local
ingredients available for his menus.
Then he seeks to prepare these ingredients to offer the very
satisfying yet sophisticated comfort foods that stretch from Spain to
Turkey along with other all time world-wide favorites.
The non- ethnic
choices include such as chicken noodle soup, hamburgers, Reuben
sandwiches, crab cakes, meat loaf and of course the now ubiquitous New
York, Filet and Ribeye steaks finished in a woodburning oven.
The menu is still
evolving.
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Comfortable Casual Dining Room at
Mediterraneo |
There
are 34 main luncheon choices including four 9” thin crust Neapolitan style
pizzas at $8.95 to $11.95 cooked in that wood-burning oven, 5 pastas at
$8.95 for Arrabiatta to $14.95 for Linguine Vongole; a Pastrami Panini,
French Dip, Club plus 9 other sandwich classics. All sandwiches include a
choice of French Fries, fresh fruit or Mediterraneo house salad. There are
10 salads from $6.95 to $13.75 including Cobb, Caesar, Nicoise, and Chinese
Chicken. Each dish that we observed, clearly had been given special
attention and was beautifully plated.
At
dinner, chicken is offered 4 ways from $12.95 to $18.95. There is classic
Parmesan, Ripieno, Chicken Pot Pie and basic Roasted. Three pastas are added
in the evening including Lobster Ravioli at $18.95. Steaks are among the
most expensive items on the menu with that 14 0z choice Ribeye served with
fresh seasonal vegetables and roasted fingerling potatoes at $27.95.
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Mediterraneo's Banquette Seating-Bistro Dining
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One night my wife
raved about a beautifully prepared Burratta Salad (9.75) with fresh
Mozzarella wrapped in Prosciutto on a bed of Arugula and Fresh
sliced pears with a light Balsamic reduction sauce followed by a
special that night of Lake Superior Whitefish over perfectly
prepared Risotto. The fish was moist and perfectly prepared. The
risotto had that creamy crunch.
I
ordered a 3 year old favorite of mine; the now very popular fresh red
and gold beet salad on baby frise lettuce with home toasted walnuts and
gorgonzola cheese (7.25). I love steamed beets.
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My
main course was Paella (20.95). I am a big fan there as well. It was a
substantial serving of Prawns, Manila Clams, Mussels, Calamari and Fresh
Fish served with a saffron sauce and over saffron rice. It was pleasant. But
I was somewhat disappointed by the lack of classic earthy Spanish Paella
heartiness. It was missing the sausage and chicken which I had expected
which is then accompanied by a stronger saffron impact.
I
reread the menu and realized that I had missed the term “Seafood” preceding
Paella. As they say in Italian “Mea Culpa”.
There
are 9 desserts from all over and they are all $6.25. We split a wonderful
Florentine Art which was a White Chocolate Mousse served in a delicate
caramelized almond bowl with seasonal berries.
There
is Tiramisu from Italy, Crème Brulee from France, Cheese Cake from Brooklyn
(?) and Strudel from Hungary. The latter two are definitely not near the
Mediterranean.
Espresso was perfectly prepared and served hot.
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Thus,
Mediterraneo absolutely appears to have pretty much achieved that elusive
second niche that they needed. It is a value approach to finely prepared and
interesting food served by well trained personnel in an ambience that could
be termed as “Bistro Plus”. And that
is
a truly unique niche for Ventura County.
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Wine prices are
about average and the list still seems to be a work in process. Offered
are a reasonably broad range of styles with emphasis on
Italian Reds
and domestic
Chardonnay
(now over-planted, over hyped and overrated). There is large choice of
Pinot Noir,
deservedly from “Sideways” fame but they are surprisingly short on
the emerging
Sauvignon Blanc
which is a valid
value and taste alternative for the "I'll have a glass of
Chardonnay" crowd.
Corkage is an extremely fair $15. If you have a decent
selection of wine in the closet
especially if it
has had some aging, this might be an intelligent choice.
The restaurant also seems to be following the trend of others in the
industry by offering generous 8 oz. servings in a carafe at fair prices
within their wine by the glass program. The selection is ........
........adequate.... but it
does give the diners the benefit of ordering the appropriate wine to
match the food selection at acceptable prices. |

Dine or Drink at Mediterraneo Bar |
Mediterraneo
32037 Agoura Road , Westlake Village 818-889-9105
Open For Dinner Nightly Open For Lunch Monday-Saturday
Reservations Desirable Most Credit Cards Adjacent Easy Free Parking


Frankly Noted - Gossip Around The Conejo
Very, Very Big News
As noted above, for the first time since that popularity contest
called Zagat's has been published, 6 of the 12 very worthy
Conejo restaurants have
finally been recognized with listings in the Los Angeles
Edition. There are still at least 6 to go. Ask me.
In the present case, local credit is due to the management
skills of the owners combined with talented chefs. There is Tuscany,
justifiably,
rated as one of the best in all California within the crowded and highly competitive Italian category. Owner
Tomasso Barletta of Bari and Executive Chef Maurizio Ronzoni
from Lake Como deserve kudos for that.
Then there is Leila's, unbelievably,
perhaps,
rated equal (???) to Spago's for California Cuisine.
Give credit to the very
capable and amiable owner Peyman Afshar for that, and for keeping the
manic but brilliant chef Richie De Mane happy, super creative and
healthy. Just
watching Richie in the small open kitchen is worth the price of admission.
There is the super cool owner- manager Tom
Sweet partnering with veteran Chef Nick Blinoff to offer consistently
satisfying Mediterranean cuisine at the very attractive Mandevilla.
Cafe 14, also serving
sophisticated California Fusion in Agoura has now
made the list with the kitchen manned by a very competent espoused owner chef team of
Claudine and Neil Kramer. See our review on this personable pair in
our "Second Chances Feature."
If you just did the math, you
only came up with 4 rather than six. But remember that the recently arrived
Mastro's and Brent's had previous accreditation.
Openings and Closings!!!
Tryst-
Now admitted to be completely closed. The original
Rendez-vous had been allowed to run down physically and culinarily (Can
that be a word?)
by the original low energy and
essentially incompetent son of the French
owner. It was much more than the supposedly
sophisticated new manager-owner was willing to recognize or admit. It
will take two- three hundred thousand dollars to bring it up to
any acceptable standards and get rid of the odor of mold. Why bother? The
light cosmetics that were applied were unable to overcome the serious and
basic deficiencies. Employing as a chef, a former waitress
who claimed a very suspect international resume was also a serious
failing.
Kohinoor- The only Indian
restaurant in the Conejo located on Los Arboles just burned down completely.
The owner plans to rebuild immediately and completely.
With the recent additions. We now have many more
fine restaurants in this extended Conejo area than the entire San Fernando
Valley, all of Orange County and San Diego County and are closing in
on the very large Westside area of Los Angeles from La Brea to the
Sea.
In California now it
is San Francisco, West Los Angeles, The Conejo Valley with downtown Los Angeles
trailing as a distant fourth with the exception of Chinatown. Santa Barbara has moved up and down.
Citronelle is gone and the Wine Cask is overrated.
Further a broad
spectrum exists here with amazing excellence in Japanese-Sushi, Italian, Pizza,
French, Chinese (on the outskirts), Sea Food, Steak (now), Fusion,
Californian, Continental, Deli (now) and perhaps 2 or 3 fairly good
Mexican Choices. At least 15 great choices in all.

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