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Bangkok by the Water
(or Redux on Hampshire)
Prologue: There is a bit of irony and
nostalgia in this article. The restaurant being reviewed is located on the
lower level of The Water Court Plaza office building on Hampshire in
Westlake. This previously was the semi-secret location of “Bistro by
the Water” During its sporadic tenure, Bistro often delivered the most
sophisticated and creative food in Ventura County. Sadly, the brilliant but
under-appreciated Asian influenced chef died about a year ago and the
location remained vacant until recently. Amazingly, the new restaurant
appears to me, to be, yet another Asian
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River Restaurants in Bangkok
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gem-like “sleeper”. The food is pure Thai
however, and thus not the “Haute Cuisine” of Bistro, but in some ways it
may be more satisfying for a wider range of diners.
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Thai Westlake Cuisine
After you have parked at the far end of the office
building lot and located the sign that says Thai Westlake Cuisine,
you must go down a long set of stairs. As you descend you will see your
dining target out of the corner of your right eye.
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Frequent Diners on a Return Visit |
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To say that the style of the restaurant is spartan
would be an understatement. A few small oriental screens (perhaps left over
from the previous occupant) attempt to create a feeling of intimacy in the
tiny dining area. There are a couple of twigs and other limited
efforts at
décor on the walls. A few tiny wooden herons hang from the rafters. There
are white table-cloths but they are under soil preventing economical glass
tabletops. You could get the feeling that you are in Bangkok but on the
wrong side of the Chao Praya River. See above.
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| However your concerns quickly evaporate when an
effervescent young lady named “Pookie”
Punyataweekul leads you to your table. Pookie alone is worth the subterranean trip. You will
be further comforted as you realize that Thai Westlake Cuiisine is a classic
Asian family affair. Pookie’s brother- in-law Thamrong Mekswong and
his wife Sathaporn (Pookie’s sister) preside over the small hidden
kitchen in the rear. What comes out of there is delicious. Pookies husband
buses the tables. . |
Thamrong has the touch. He
worked for years at Lannathai, considered to be the best
(among many) Thai restaurants in the San Fernando Valley. From there he
moved to Monterey Park, which is the capital of Asian cooking in the
United States. It’s the restaurant world’s version of survival of the
fittest. He survived. |

Owner Chefs Sathaporn and Thamrong Meksong
and Pookie Punyataweekul |
The menu writing is
somewhat cutesy but every dish described was
appealing. Pookie can help guide you. Go with at least four people and share
family style to get a full experience. For four we started with fried and
steamed Siam Spring Rolls (4.95 each). The presentation was artistic and the
diverse flavors astounding. A large bowl of shared Andaman Sea Soup (8.95),
redolent with aroma contained fish, clams, shrimp, scallops, mussels and
mushrooms with a touch of lemon grass and galanga. A comparable
portion would have been more than $20 in
a non-ethnic restaurant. Next was the Thai classic Pad Thai (7.25) which is
noodles with shrimp, chicken, egg, bean curd, bean sprouts, green onion and
chopped peanuts. Flavors were clean and the texture of the noodles
perfect.
We followed with a Jade Curry and a Ruby Curry (6.50
each), one with chicken and one with beef. They were spicy but with subtle
different overtones which I had never seemed to experience on other Thai
eateries. . The main dish was
vegetables with Sea Bass (12.95). It was a slight letdown compared to the
previous dishes. When we further pointed out that it was sparse on the fish,
Pookie quickly agreed and reduced the price by $6.
Finally we had an artistically presented dessert of
fried banana with touches of vanilla ice cream. Again it was a wonderful
confluence of flavors we had never experienced. The food cost for four was
about $60.
Thai Westlake Cuisine offers interesting salads for lunch
including the wonderful YamYai, which is pictured below along with the
regular menu.
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Yam Mai Salad
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I suggest delicious Singa Thai beer ($3.50) which helps
you deal with the spiciness. The wine list is very limited. If some in your
group must have wine, think about supplying your own bottle of Gewurstraminer white or
Zinfandel red and paying the corkage. They both match up reasonably well
with the food.
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Epilogue: We have eaten in Bangkok,
Thailand as well as the finest Thai Restaurants in Los Angeles including
the very expensive and hip Talesai on Sunset and earlier at the then
venerable breakthrough Siam Princess. The food at Thai Westlake Cuisine was more
authentic than any Thai food we have eaten in this country and compares in
flavor and presentation with the best we had in Bangkok without the cost of
the plane trip.
Thai Westlake Cuisine
860 Hampshire Road (Lower Level Water Court Plaza) Westlake
- Plenty of Free Parking 805-38-0094 Most Credit Cards Free Delivery (within 5 miles ) Open
every day - Only for Dinner on Sunday |