Letty’s Mexican Restaurant

As I reported a couple of years ago, I have to issue somewhat of a disclaimer when it comes to Mexican Food.  I am not sure I have ever understood the food and so I merely try to apply the most basic of approaches… authenticity, flavor and sensuous pleasure.  Forget about the health issues. On the other hand my wife was born and raised on Sal’s of Oxnard authentic and complete meals for $5. She still goes there, generally without me and I still don’t get it.

So in order for us to start spending more time together I have been constantly searching for “Great Mexican Food”. Further I am often at a loss when I get requests for “ A decent Mexican restaurant in the Conejo”. I need answers. So there is constant double motivation.

Therefore when I was informed by perhaps the most skilled chef in Ventura County that a ”sleeper” Mexican restaurant existed in a strip center off Hillcrest in Newbury Park, my heart began to beat heavily in anticipation.  We became even more excited when we drove up to the area and saw that it also featured a ‘carniceria” and a tortilleria. Further, a group wearing authentic Mexican ranchero hats occupied some outside tables.

My wife ordered Chile Relleno and I ordered Carne Asada, both of which I have come to believe are tests of decent Mexican culinary skills. At our table, we were quickly presented with the accompanying salad by a sullen waitperson. The salad matched her demeanor.  The beans served with our entrée choices were clean in flavor and the rice was fluffy and flavorful. However the Chile Relleno was ordinary  and lacking any definitive taste while the Carne Aasada consisted of very thin strips of tough and tasteless beef.  

When I attempted to talk to any of the three workers that moved about the relatively empty room, I received little response and I spoke to them both in English and fluent Spanish.  Morale seemed low. Maybe it was just a bad day.  With beer the bill came to about $20, so maybe it deserves another chance when we are in the neighborhood or try it for takeout.

You should know however, that in spite of my disclaimer we have eaten in most of the better or more well known Mexican restaurants in this country.  That includes the oft- hyped Topolobampo and Frontera Grill run by Rick Bayless in the loop area of... hard to believe…. Chicago!!  It featured long waits and what seemed to be contrived Mexican food at high prices. We have traveled to East Los Angeles to dine at well-known Tamayo. It was good but may not be worth the trouble.

When a branch of the acclaimed Boyle Heights’ Serenata de Garibaldi Seafood opened on Pico Blvd. in West Los Angeles, we ate there twice. Service was pedestrian and the food about the same. 60 year old El Cholo on Western Avenue and El Coyote on Beverly in Los Angeles are almost as big a joke as the tourist traps on Olvera Street.

I have never eaten there but The Sonora Café on La Brea offers a Taos take on Southwest Mexican food that is reported to be palatable. El Chavo in the Silverlake district on Sunset Blvd near downtown is an adventuresome try on the way to the Music Center that serves authentic food in a fun atmosphere.  Finally, those that seem to be in the know have reported that the best Tacos in the city can be found at The Farmers Market Taco Stand located at Fairfax and 3^rd Street.

However, if any travel East on the 101 is on  “The Dreaded” list, then I can offer only two choices: El Taqueria Baijo in Santa Barbara is a fun adventure and has what I consider to be the best Mexican food I have eaten.  It is a 40-minute drive North to the Milpas exit just South of downtown. Turn right onto Milpas and drive about 4 blocks. You will see it on the corner on the left. It is easy to find because during dining periods, there is usually a line out into the street. Be prepared for a short wait. Incidentally it is on the same street as the more famous Julia Child’s hangout La Super Rica.  We lucked out because La Super Rica was, and still may be closed for badly needed renovation. We asked around and were directed to El Baijo. I’d take it over Super Rica on every count.  

You are greeted at the counter by an amiable young lady and offered a wide choice of authentic, mouthwatering, interesting and often unusual Mexican fare at remarkable prices. You can eat at the very comfortable and immaculate inside dining room, eat on outside tables that ring the small restaurant or opt for takeout and sit on a bench along the beach drive.  You’ll have a lot of fun and can combine a day visit to Santa Barbara.

Owners, Carlos and Ada Orozco have been continually improving this hillside property so that you can dine outside at a group of heated small patios that ring the restaurant or under an enclosed and roofed area that opens up in pleasant weather to give a feeling of dining Al Fresco.

The food is excellent and fairly priced. Carlos presides over the kitchen, which turns out fresh Mexican seafood platters with flavorful beans and fluffy clean rice at about $15 a plate. Fish Tacos are available along with traditional Mexican fare and wonderful Southwest Barbecue plates and hamburgers. It is a great place to take kids for an early dinner and it turns romantic when the sun goes down. Their margaritas are both well sized and priced. Service is outstanding with friendly long-term servers that know what they are doing.

Letty’s Mexican Restaurant

2454 West Hillcrest at Rancho Conejo     805-376- 2320 
Most Credit Cards  Open Daily    Park Right in Front of the Restaurant   Takeout Available