Great Expectations!

Brent’s Deli Westlake

Great Deli or Not?

We all know that "Great Expectations" by Charles Dickens is one of the great novels of all time, and at least in its initial production, was an artistic film triumph,. Further we also all have had personal “Great Expectations” that were occasionally fulfilled, (blind dates?) but usually were not.

Restaurants and film are both subjective matters involving personal choice. Coincidentally, both have three main elements that require consideration when one tries to do an objective criticism. In film, story, acting and cinema-photography are the factors that critics use in making their judgments  which often differ widely.

The three classic elements of restaurants are food, service and décor. While the importance of each of these varies in the minds of the diners, there is no doubt food is the key element. Then there are the sub elements of food such as creativity, ingredients and presentation.

The term “deli” can be applied to a wide range of ethnic restaurants or stores that offer mostly foreign prepared foods in a refrigerator case plus specialty packaged items along with some home cooking served on the premises.

However, most people are actually thinking of “Jewish” delis when they use the broad term.  In fact Jewish delis seem to have become national institutions.

Two historic (though now average) local L.A. Westside delis, Nate ‘n Al’s and Canter’s are currently featured in nationwide TV commercials pitching Pastrami sandwiches for the notoriously gross Carl’s Jr.

Who would have thought that macho slobbering  through a  mouth stretching Pastrami Sandwich on Rye could translate to an aura of superior male sexuality and performance? In a Jewish a Deli? Only the tasteless Carl's  Jr. ( Get it?) would have audacity to openly suggest such  vulgar thoughts.

Three New York delis have been featured in major films. They are:                                        Katz’s (When Harry Met Sally), Carnegie (Broadway Danny Rose) and The Stage (multiples).  In a paradox these top  three while offering generally acceptable and large portions of food are equally famous for surly waiters and dumpy almost intentionally low scale dowdy décor.

Brent's Upscale Dining Decor

Thus apparently, as in baseball,  one hit out of three is OK for delis. It does not appear to deter crowds and in fact may be considered a necessity for the true deli addict. This esoteric combination of surly dumpiness somehow, perversely seems to breed long term success. In an industry (the general food serving business) with the highest failure rate of all businesses, all five of the above delis have been in business for 50 years or more. Brent’s Northridge and Langer's downtown on Alvarado (amazingly only open til 4 PM) are  not far behind.

Thus the enigma of judging a deli restaurant is that the normal rating elements described above often don’t apply. All of this........when  added to the virtual mass hysteria and “Great Expectations” surrounding Brent’s Westlake opening has made it very difficult to offer an objective review that has to deal with these strange and perhaps perverse multiple nuances.

 However, we will give it a try.  After all, we are not talking about the French Laundry here.

So, first of course, must come the food at Brent’s Westlake. In the minds of most, a triple digit number of choices in huge portions at reasonable prices may be the defining difference between normal dining and deli dining. Brent's Westlake certainly delivers on all..

Their  menu has over 300 individual entries including 70 breakfast items... not counting side orders, 25 desserts and 16 hamburgers. There are 70 sandwiches (not counting those hamburgers)  that may be served grilled, hot or cold.

And this perhaps is really the “Great Expectation” that many Westlakers have eagerly anticipated and sought. Dining regularly at Brent’s may keep the spouse happy  while easing  the burden of the 5 digit mortgage, tax and insurance payments on that Conejo mansion which also houses a leased BMW and a new boat-like Infiniti Super SUV.

Oh yeah! I forgot those subtle but perverse service and décor elements.

Brent’s Northridge has sassy, experienced, very deli knowledgeable ethnic servers. There is a word for that.  They are part of that Brent’s drama and appeal. Westlake servers presently seem to be part-timers recruited from Moorpark JC or are Roxie’s escapees. It will take some time, if ever, for them to learn those 300 items and create some level of a true deli experience. Sadly, they may never become sassy. That is also an obscure art. Some say it is cultural and possibly even genetic.

The Westlake location previously housed white table cloth restaurants such as Ottavio’s, Red’s BBQ, LG Steaks and Paul’s. Brent’s has spent a lot of money on its décor and remodeling but perhaps inadvertently  wound up with a high ceiling deluxe coffee shop-sports bar look rather than a traditional bustling deli atmosphere. .

This combination of non-surly service, upscale décor and those 1 ½” paper cups of cole slaw may explain why there have been occasional comments from the current self acclaimed deli mavens of the Conejo about “Great Expectations” not met….. even though the food may measure up. But “those people” can have roots from the “dreaded” Northwest Valley or even Brooklyn and therefore believe that only they know what a deli is really all about.  

We’ll report back in about a year.  

Nevertheless... On Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings and for Saturday or Sunday Brunch there is often a 20 minute prox wait. But they say that they do take and reasonably honor reservations.

Meanwhile maybe we should offer an authentic  “Class in Sass”. Who better?

Brent's Delicatessen & Restaurant
Westlake: 2799 Townsgate Rd. (Townsgate Rd. & Westlake Blvd.) (805) 557-1882 
Northridge: 19565 Parthenia St. (Between Winnetka and Tampa)     (818) 886-5679

Open Every Day for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner- Free and Easy Adjacent Parking

Most Credit Cards Accepted