Home Feature Story Wine Wisdom Second Chances

Classic Chinese Cuisine 
At "Chester's" In
Conejo Close Camarillo

*And Now there is the long awaited Brent's
Jewish (?) Deli- See Frankly Noted Below

The explosive interest in “Taking Out”, “Dining Out” and “Eating Out” (there is that fast food difference!!!) that we have witnessed for the last three or four decades has, to a major extent been fueled by three separate forces.

First, of course, there is our present high powered, time impacted life style. Then there is the current interest in gourmet food fueled by the Food Channel and all those snooty self absorbed food and wine magazines. Finally there are the economic issues that result from all of this normally more expensive non-home… cooking….. dining…… eating.  
 

In order to meet today’s demand for a prestige home in the “right” neighborhood, at least two socially acceptable cars (think three or four if the kids are teenage or older) and of course the incredible cost of college, both spouses are now generally fully employed. Thus, expecting Honey to come home from work to the stove during the week has gone out the window along with peeling potatoes and washing pots and pans.  

The effect on the restaurant industry has been dramatic. There may be 10-20 times the number of restaurants and takeouts in the Conejo today that eliminate the need to cook at home, compared to the “Seventies and Eighties ”. Wouldn’t it be fun to get your hands on “The 1975 Yellow Pages” just to check it out?

The most interesting portion of this explosion, justifiably, has come in the area of ethnic foods. Think Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, Greek, Japanese, Indian, Italian and of course Chinese. Ethnics usually, are usually individually family operated, have character, are the most fun and with the exception of Japanese and Italian provide real dining bargains compared to those cookie cutter chains where the servers are almost always clueless, named Tiffany (but can’t spell it) and spend a lot of time bent over.     

But for now, just think about Chinese Food. For that food alone, amazingly meets all of the needs of the opening paragraph of this article. There were those solitary Chinese restaurants in every neighborhood that offered in house dining and “Takeout” far before Baja Fresh, McDonalds,  Domino’s Pizza and the notorious (that’s the only  rational word) Carl’s Junior For Macho Slobs”

The Chinese were doing it right before  you ever knew about Mao Tse Tung or Chou En Lai.  

They consistently still do it best by combining palate satisfying ingredients, preparation and selection plus real values every time. Please do the menu math.

When I am asked for the best Chinese restaurant in the area, my answer has been the same for years. While it is a 15 minute drive over the grade to Camarillo, that restaurant is “Chester’s Asia”. Remember that it is still does not equal the “schlep” to The Dreaded Valley.

Bluntly, Chester’s may provide the most satisfying overall dining experience for adults and or  children for your dollar in all of Ventura County ….the San Fernando Valley and Santa Barbara. Do not judge it from the outside. Inside it is wonderful.

The reasons are clear. Chester’s is a family affair. Co-owner-manager Keith Kwan is seriously in-charge, with the aid of his sister Cindy up front and his brother Li in the kitchen. The three of them have been doing it together for 20 years prox. It is their business. They really care and they do it right.

So, do not confuse Chester’s with those “horsey” pseudo Chinese restaurants that do not have a single Chinese person anywhere on the premises; nor even a server that has any idea about whether there are actually left-handed chopstick.  There is no such thing.

The spacious and comfortable dining room is the most attractive for a real Chinese restaurant within 40 miles. Keith is a floral artist and fresh arrangements are always in place. The restaurant is often remodeled. The very friendly waiters have been on the job for years. They are helpful and know what they are doing. Children are welcome and accorded special treatment.  

The menu is extensive and features very sophisticated Mandarin, Szechuan and Cantonese food. That latter is for those Easterners who always complain that they can’t find “New York” style Chinese food out here. They are talking about Cantonese style but as often is the case, they don’t understand what they are talking about.

If you want to get the best experience, go with at least 6 people. 8 are even better. That is the way the Chinese do it. Then, if you are adventuresome, place yourself in Keith’s hands. Tell him you want a FrankAboutFood Banquet. The price for all of this is very right. But be sure to make a reservation.

You see, for little more than $20 a person, you will have a beautifully served "Chef's Choice" multi course meal to remember!!!  (Think $75 or more for Omakase in a Sushi Bar).  If you have specific choices such as Mui Shui Pork, Steamed Dumplings or Corn Soup, indicate it and it will be incorporated into your adventure. If you have specific dislikes make that clear. Children essentially eat free since there is always more than enough on the table. At the end of the meal you can fight over who takes home what. There usually will be enough for many meals the next few days.

Chester’s has a full bar with cocktails, but we recommend Tsingtao beer. If you must have wine, consider Gewürztraminer or Sauvignon Blanc. Stay away from Chardonnay or Reds.

Drive West on the 101 to Lewis Road in Camarillo, turn left for 2-3 blocks to Arneil. Right on Arniel for 2 blocks to Pickwick. Left on Pickwick into the strip center on your left. See photo

There is a surfeit of other Chinese restaurants in the county, many of which are just average. Chester's is way above average. Also stay away from all you can eat buffets. They are deadly.

My local choice if you don’t want to drive or do want local takeout is Lakeview Gardens on Lakeview Canyon next to the small movie theater. They are experts in takeout and do as much business or more in those takeout bags as many other restaurants do for a whole night at the tables. They deliver. They are also a family affair and know what they are doing.  Ask for Pam. They are always very, very busy.  Check them out in our Second Chances feature.

Chen’s on Los Arboles is also a convenient choice. It has been around for a long time. But food is somewhat prosaic. The Mandarin Wok in The Janss Mall is gone.

If you are a Chinese food sophisticate and have been searching for local Dim Sum dumpling lunches there is some hope. A&W Seafood (they don’t serve root beer) on Reseda Blvd., just North of Nordhoff offers off the cart lunches every day. A truly wonderful lunch can cost less than splitting a Pizza.  Check them out as well in our Second Chances feature.

Finally, also in the “Dreaded Valley” Yank Chow was a previous “insider” choice but it has gone down hill and should be avoided. Bambu in far away Studio City is the only other decent "Valley choice

Chester’s Asia Chinese Restaurant  22116 Pickwick Drive, Camarillo  805-482-6564

Lakeview Gardens  4703 Lakeview Canyon Rd Westlake Village,   View Map
818-991-3850

Chen’s  2024-A Avenida de Los Arboles, Thousand Oaks 818-492-3583

A & W Seafood Restaurant  9306 Reseda Blvd.,  Northridge,  View Map
818-882-6668

Frankly Noted - Gossip Around The Conejo

Very Big News

For the first time since that  popularity contest called Zagat's has been published, at least 3 of the 8 very worthy Conejo restaurants have been recognized with listings in the Los Angeles Edition.  There are still 5 to go.   Ask me.

In the present case, credit is due to the management skills of the owners combined with talented chefs. There is Tuscany, rated as one of the best in all California within  the crowded and highly competitive Italian category. Owner Tomasso Barletta of Bari  and Executive Chef Maurizio Ronzoni from Lake Como deserve kudos for that.

Then there is Leila's, unbelievably  rated equal to Spago's for California Cuisine. Credit the very capable and amiable owner Peyman Afshar for that, by keeping the manic but brilliant chef Richie De Mane happy.super creative and healthy  Just watching Richie in the small open kitchen is worth the price of admission.

Finally there is the super cool owner- manager Tom Sweet partnering with veteran Chef Nick Blinoff to offer consistently satisfying Mediterranean cuisine at the very attractive Mandevilla.

Mastro's and Brents Openings!!!

Mastro's is supposed to open  on T. O. Blvd this week. They just hit the headlines for offering a flute (4 oz.- 1/6th of a bottle)  of Veuve Cliquot for $25. Even with a strong Franc raising the price, that is about what they pay for a full bottle max. They get back $150 !!!! How do you think that will go over in The Conejo.

As with other restaurants we will wait a while to review Mastro's and let it settle down. We have been constantly asked about reviewing P6 but they have changed chef's so often that any review is past history  by the time we are ready to print. Same for Chapter 8.

We had no intentions of reviewing  the newly opened Brent's until it had settled in for at least a month. It has been chaotic. Reports back from our loyal readers  that have visited Brent's have been mixed.

However a review on October 5 by an "unnamed" local food writer was so ill intentioned, ill informed and misleading that sadly, I must comment and will follow with a full review in about a month.

She attempts to describe "Jewish ethnic" food but clearly she has even lesser knowledge of it   than her amazingly limited knowledge of Asian Ethnic food.

Thus this essentially out of touch reviewer who apparently has never dined in the original Brent's in Northridge or apparently any  serious local L.A. deli such Art's or Langer's   or New York's famous  Katz's, Stage or  Carnegie completely misinforms the readers  about the most important foods offered. Her accompanying photo makes things even worse. Who would want to eat a dark brown matzoh ball? It's really light and white.  How many of her Ventura County readers could possibly be interested in cholesterol and fat (smetana)  laden chopped chicken liver, equally fat laden kishke, kashe or even farfel. 

The most important item sold by Brent's or ANY deli is a giant Pastrami or Corned Beef sandwich with pickles served on Jewish style rye bread. Period. It may represent 50% or more of all the food served especially in an area like Westlake..

The meats for these giant (at least she got that right) sandwiches must be specially prepared and sliced. The bread must have been baked with the last few hours. All of this takes unique skills and attention. For that is what Brent's is really famous. It was ignored.  Another very popular sandwich in the Conejo is the  Reuben Sandwich which has Corned Beef, Swiss Cheese and Sauerkraut.  Brent's also does this one very well Those serious about dessert always order New York style Cheese Cake.

None of the above was mentioned. It is akin to reviewing Domino's without writing about the Pizza or Ruth's Chris without mentioning The Steaks.

Further none of the above is limited to a "Jewish Clientele".  In fact most of the clientele in Westlake are not nor will they ever be " ethnics". But  they will order Pastrami which is obviously universal if you have seen the latest Carl's Junior Television ads. That somewhat insulting  ad takes place at Canter's Deli in the Los Angeles  Fairfax district. Canter's is not in the ball park with Brent's.

The Holiday dining season is upon us and Serge Bonnet kicks it off with his very special three course Prix Fixe lunch at $14.95. Coffee or Tea is included.

On Wednesdays and Thursdays, he offers a 5 course special diner with 5 accompanying wines for $40. WOW!!!

His location across from the Civic Arts Plaza is a perfect choice if you are attending an event.

He now offers a complete quality catering service.