For many years, the only “steak joint” in The Conejo was Corrigans’s after the venerable Monty’s strangely
departed its Los Robles golf course location. Corrigan’s supposed
appeal was that its run down condition suggested low prices (it sure
wasn’t the food) and that the owner wore a cartoonish 10 gallon hat
to exploit that his father was the famous (?) “Crash” Corrigan. The
latter was actually an obscure B- pic wrangler. I never met any one
that has ever actually eaten there.
Then in rode another chain drugstore cowboy,
Stuart Anderson, with his Black Angus and an obvious hook. He
created a vicarious western he-man appeal of red meat via the use of
Playboy style copies of the high hem line 90 degree tilted “My name
is Tiffany and I am here to serve you” waitresses (only the busboys
were male). This enabled the drawling Stuart to barely stay on his
horse and trot through the cholesterol scare but only after a series
of chapter reorganizations and legal maneuvers.
Until a few years ago, the limited choices were
New York, and Top Sirloin for the supposed hipsters and Filet Mignon
for those in need of dental work …all usually ordered medium well.
It is hard to understand why they called it red meat…grey meat would
have been more appropriate. Now, if you order a steak medium well or
even medium in any steakhouse (especially with true Kobe Beef at
$150 for 8 ozs!!!!) “The Steak Nazi” throws you out!!
Thus in today’s world of red meat, you need to
be an animal biology, economics and, geography major to make an
intelligent decision. But, first of all, let’s get that Kobe beef
story straight.
Those of you that think you have been eating
true Kobe beef with all that hand massaged, beer fed hype for the
last few years should sue for fraud. You haven’t ………….unless you
visited Japan recently. You see, until the last few months, it had
been banned in the U.S. for many years.
What you were served may have been American
“Wagyu” (Kobe Style??) beef from Black Angus cows impregnated by
Japanese bulls brought here from the Kobe area of Japan. If the
Wagyu came from the highly regarded Snake River Ranch in, you did
get a superior steak or hamburger.
I have had Snake River Wagyu and there is a
difference. At $16-18 for a hamburger or $50-60 for a steak they are
an apparent cut above “Prime” and may be worth the up charge.
Legitimate local restaurants such as Monty’s in Woodland Hills and
Bellavino in Westlake tell you it is raised in America. However a
number of Hollywood, Beverly Hills and even one local steak
restaurant have recently been nailed as serving Wagyu and
consciously charging $70-80 for fictitious Kobe steaks from Japan.
However the USDA recently took off the ban on
Japanese beef and now true Kobe Beef is available at better steak
restaurants around the country at the caviar like price of $20 per
oz. Thus an 8 oz New York steak can cost you $160. Further you may
not be able to eat it all since it is so striated with rich layers
of fat (that is from where the flavor is derived) that 3 or 4 ozs
might finish you off.
So now in the top restaurants, you have a
choice of true Kobe, Wagyu Kobe and basic old fashioned Prime (not
that there is anything wrong with that) in the old style choices
plus t-bone, porterhouse, flatiron and flank styles .
Here are my dining choices and non-choices with
mostly brief notes.
Arnie Morton’s has been THE name in upscale
steak dining many decades…. and deservedly so. It began on Rush
Street in that very competitive steak city (Chicago) and continues
to professionally serve large portions of high quality steak and
sides at wallet busting but fair prices. They expanded on a limited
basic to Beverly Hills and one or two other spots. But have been
able to maintain their standards. If you want the best but are a
light eater, you might consider splitting portions. They may look at
you funny but they will do it, perhaps with a slight up charge. It
is a true old time steak restaurant experience.
Ruth’s Chris roared out of New Orleans with a
big reputation and now has double digit locations all over the
country. Many think it is the equal or better than Arnies. But I
have a hard time believing that they can maintain the same high
standards with all that absentee management. Cooking the steak is no
problem. You or I could do that. All you need is a thermometer and
controlled heat. Ruth’s Chris can certainly control quality
purchasing of the best nationwide without difficulty. But I wonder
about how much service warmth and reality you get with what
essentially becomes a mass produced and served meal.
30 years ago The Palm was the go to big deal in
Los Angeles with 2 ½ lb. and up lobsters, fat steaks at Michael
Eisner prices plus classic insolent waiters. Pseudo foodies flocked
there in the hopes of getting Eisner’s special table by implying
that they were high rollers. They were really just tasteless
conspicuous consumers. The Palm still attracts a similar clientele
but is now second tier with same old high prices.
