Home Restaurants Wine Wisdom

 

“Boneyard Bistro”
More Than Just Babyback Ribs…  
It has Chops!!!!

It has long been an established fact that most of the sophisticated denizens of The Conejo look with disdain upon “The “Schlep” (the drive gets worse every day) to dine in the “Dreaded Valley”.

They might occasionally make the slightly longer venture over the hill or down PCH to L.A.’s  Westside to prove that they have the assets (and palate) to pop for $150+ a person at Bastide, Matisse or Valentino’s. But that’s it.

.L’Orangerie?? Sorry ….But Yech $$$$$

With the demise of Granita and Giorgio’s in Malibu, that area no longer offers a reason for a somewhat lesser trek…… unless you are still enthralled with a seal barking or a baby dolphin frolicking.

I’ve never understood why dolphins always frolic. Do they know what is going on in the world?


 

Thus the extremely over hyped and overpriced Nobu, plus the other  tourist traps on  PCH, Moonshadows, The Chart House, Dukes, Beau Rivage and those nameless but arrogant Italian joints in the local strip marts, should generally, all  be assiduously avoided.

 If you are still suffering salt air or ocean drive withdrawal symptoms, try the Italian casual Allegria,  ½ mile south of the pier on the left side of PCH or Googie’s for breakfast or lunch. It is in the same shopping center where Granita was located.

Further, it must be admitted that the recent explosion of excellent dining choices along with the established old timers (at least 20 in all) from Agoura to Newbury Park is a valid reason for not wasting  gas, oil or time. This is especially true with the local abundance of authentic Sushi Bars.Think  Sushi Yusho, Ori Sushi and Kaminari    However …......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everybody Has to Pay Attention at
Fast Moving "Boneyard"

Recently opened  "Boneyard Bistro" in Sherman Oaks is absolutely worth the trip, even with petrol at 3 bucks a gallon. Executive Chef-owner Aaron Robins is a complete package with very well honed chops.  

Robins has been around and one look at the traditional BBQ page of The Boneyard makes it clear that his time at the authentic BBQ heavens of the southeast were well-spent. But his culinary vistas have been further expanded by stints in San Francisco and Chicago. In the windy city, he was at the eponymous kitchen of Charlie Trotter who with Thomas Keller (French Laundry), Mario Batali (Babbo) and Jean George Vongerichten (Jean George, Vongs) have been the real Big Four of American cuisine for almost 20 years.

Emeril Legasse?????  Fuggedaboudid!!!!!

Thus, Robin’s complete skills are obvious when you then turn to the Bistro menu on the back after reading the lengthy BBQ page 

He understands the importance of quality meats for his BBQed meals. He buys only the best in an array of hickory smoked choices, all of which he then dry hand rubs with special seasoning and grills over red oak with home made BBQ sauce, on the side. This separates it from the over-sauced stuff you usually get in most local joints which is designed to hide the poor quality and flavor of the meat drowning below.

Brisket ($16) is tender and tasty. Baby back ribs (half rack $16 full rack $24) are meaty and flavorful. Tri- tip ($18) is great. All are served with a choice of 2 sides including fried Mac and Cheese, baked beans, collard greens (remarkable), cole slaw or French Fries. Then there are interesting combo plates of all this. BBQed Chicken and pulled chicken are also available in many configurations.

All at unbelievably fair prices.


Salmon Plate is a Culinary Work of Art
 

The portions are GIGANTIC. There is a firm charge of $4 for splitting and it may be the best $4 you ever spent. There is easily enough for two on the oversized, beautiful, designer plates brought to the table. and that includes wonderful appetizers.

I ordered succulent, steamed mussels ($12) in a magnificent chorizo broth. I shared half the mussels and broth with others at the table and still could not come close to finishing in anticipation of the main course. Spectacular Smoked Duck Spring Rolls ($11) come with a Spicy Red Cabbage Salad and for many would be considered a main course.  Pulled Pork  Dumplings ($9) with Cole Slaw and a BBQ Buerre Blanc are a Robins original.

It seems, however, that most Boneyard Bistro regulars do not split. Maybe they share.  In all my observations, I saw smiling ladies strolling out the door. The reason was obvious. They were all carrying a doggy bag (usually large) that contained an authentic… gourmet…. complete BBQ dinner .......and more for dinner the next night. Why bother to cook??? 

Don't overlook  Robins’ Bistro menu at the  Boneyard.  And for many of you..... it may be even more exciting. His beautifully presented Porcini Crusted Salmon ($23) with Swiss chard, truffled mashers, shitake nage and wild mushroom ragout is cooked moistly slightly rare. It would be $40 at the overrated L’Orangerie,..... if they were able to keep a chef on the premises long enough to learn how to cook it.  

When looking at  the menu seek the pork chop ($26 but easily enough for 2)) in two styles on one plate, one bone in, the other in  pulled pork egg rolls also stuffed with collard greens.

There is also the now ubiquitous “Kobe” burger ($18 and worth it. See below for comments. There is more as the menu changes often along with daily specials.

Bluntly, Robins and his “Yard” are almost too good to believe. He is out among ‘em,  checking the room while relying strongly on his well trained Sous Chef Luis Alvarez. His young, amiable staff  works smoothly together better than the current Lakers dream about.

 The wine list is truly 21st century globalized, featuring wonderful values from Australia and New Zealand along with Napa and European selections. It is also heavy on Zinfandels which Robins justifiably feels is perfect for BBQ. Prices are very fair. Corkage is $12.

If there is a slight wait for a table, very competent Captain Mike offers a sip of wine. The plates and presentation measure up to some of the great tables at upscale casual restaurants. The  room is warmly designed featuring a full wine wall. But, it is  tightly seated and somewhat noisy when crowded (which is most of the time). As an option, you can sit  outside on the enclosed, heated street patio which is somewhat distracting but quiet.

Robins absolutely goes out of his way to be honest and customer friendly. His above mentioned Kobe Burger is defined as “American”. Every other restaurant that I have been to over the last few years has led you to believe that the steaks and burgers are from Japan to justify high prices. None of it was true. Just now, beef from Japan  is being allowed back into the United States.  Just Now!!!

You even get a lollipops with the bill.

Boneyard Bistro

13539 Ventura Blvd  Sherman Oaks (Use Woodman Off- Ramp)        818-906-7427 

       Most Credit Cards                  Valet Parking $3.50  (But Street Parking is Possible) 

                      Reservations Are Usually Needed     Takeout (No Delivery) 

Wine and Beer Only           Closed Monday          Open For Dinner Only the Other Days

 


www.westlakevillageinn.com

 

Frankly Noted

Le Cafe appears to have completed the remodeling of its dining rooms and outside patio.  It is one of the most pleasant inside-outside dining areas in the county. Service is also very cheerful and friendly.   We intend to do a full review in the very near future.  Meanwhile if you try it out , give us your report. We depend upon our readers for a lot of insight and suggestions.

Mastro's rehab appears to be on hold. Maybe Claimjumper's, Dakota and Chapter 8 made Mastro's management feel that with now at least 8 red meat joints in the Conejo, all but one at about 1/2 the Mastro tab, enough is enough.

Yet, the explosion of new eateries in The Conejo area seems never ending. We have received many e-mails concerning the demise of Milano’s on Canwood in Agoura. Fear not.

Very competent Carlos Orozco of Adobe Cantina fame is in the process of taking over and expects to be open by February 1st with a creative seafood menu.

That shopping center now will have two worthwhile dining spots. We reviewed Café 14 a few months ago and have since received positive feed back from many readers. Check out our review in our Second Chances feature.

But Brent's seems to be on target to add a serious deli to Ventura County. at that oft changed location near the Hyatt. Those that revel in filling up on a 2-3" thick artery killing corned beef or pastrami sandwiches  on fresh rye bread with a giant pickle on the side will soon have their chance. I'm sticking with the Classic "Chicken in the Pot" with a Matzoh Ball and a Kreplach like my grandmother used to make 

We must admit that we are not quite ready to review the supposed steak house, Chapter 8 also in Agoura. Inconsistent reports have come back to us and we really don’t like to review suspect restaurants just to write a negative review. Further we had concluded that it was more of a party club than a dining spot. We have decided to wait a bit longer.

As stated we will continue to avoid reviewing the all pseudo dining locations at "The Lakes" But we do get continued reports on long waits, mediocre food and infantile service. One  of the latest reports on the Claim Jumper  is hard to believe. It appears that this supposed steak type restaurant could not get one steak at the table right, even after two tries. The size of the take home doggy bags, however continue to be large. One wonders if mediocre poorly cooked food is better the next day.  Well, you do get to avoid the amateur serving crew. 

The competitive local reviewer for the Ventura County Star recently did do a  review on Chapter 8 so we thought perhaps we would get some professional insight. However neither she nor her guest ordered steak????. They had a Kobe burger and $35 prox fish entrée. I guess I should have anticipated that since she also recently reviewed a sushi bar but did not order sushi.  About the only thing that was apparent was  that Chapter 8 was very, very expensive

On the other hand, we have had some recent better things reported on their sister restaurant P6 in Westlake. We had also stayed away from them because it did not appear that they were serious about food either. We seemed to be correct as they had significant personnel turnover and a policy change when neighbors prevailed about late night outdoor carousing by the tight black leather pants contingent. That group may have now moved to Chapter 8.

A new chef from Joaquiin Splichal's downtown steakhouse, NIck and Stef's has taken over with a new menu and we expect to do a review very soon after he has truly settled in. Let's hope the service is also on a higher scale.  Maybe now that the Olympics are over, Wayne Gretsky can do a little stickwork on the place.