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Rebirth in Moorpark
The New “Secret Garden”
About two years ago, soon after we began writing “FrankAboutFood.com”,
a number of reader- subscribers suggested via e- mail that we review a
“find” that had opened on High Street in quaint and quiet downtown Moorpark.
They reported that the restaurant had a very romantic and subdued interior
that made for an intimate and pleasant dining experience. Further there was
a lovely “Secret” garden in the rear for alfresco dining in pleasant
weather. It certainly seemed worth the amazingly short 15-20 minute drive.
They further stated, perhaps proudly, that the restaurant was “somewhat
pricey” and had an interesting menu although they couldn’t seem to remember
what they ate.
I had learned earlier that a husband and wife team of food
dilettantes apparently with money to burn had opened “The Secret Garden.”
They may have concluded that eating at Spago in Beverly Hills,
Lucas Carton in Paris or Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago along with
ownership of the complete set of Emeril cookbooks qualified them for
this ambitious pursuit. All these signs were not good. Further I did not
want to get the same reputation as a local newspaper reviewer who
specializes in “wonderful” restaurants that often close after two months. I
passed on the review.
However, within a short time “The Secret Garden” did
become very famous on its own. Perhaps notorious is a better adjective. It
turned out to be the chosen venue for a tag team match over a dinner bill
between the female owner and the entire Frankie Avalon- Frankie Valli
entourage. Guess who won? Paradoxically, the restaurant then enjoyed an OJ
Simpson voyeur style business surge. But that disappeared quickly when it
became apparent to diners that there was to be no rematch. |
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The wealthy foodie team, who didn’t enjoy being
pinned to the mat also didn’t acquire all that money by being dumb. They quickly and wisely decided to concentrate on
eating food rather than selling it. The decision was made to cut their
losses and hope to be rescued by a proverbial white-hatted cowboy hero astride
a white horse. Amazingly, after a few months, he rode up out of the Sunset....
Boulevard area in a white SUV, clad in his heroic white toque and monogrammed
jacket with Henckels chef’s knives holstered on each hip.
| High energy, charismatic and young Michel Bardavid
had all the credentials needed for a food knifeslinger. Born in Lyon,
France, the birthplace of haute cuisine, he actually did have a stint on
Sunset Blvd. with culinary vunderkint Ken Frank at the short-lived and
trendy Argyle. He worked at Checkers in Los Angeles under
Thomas Keller, now of The French Laundry as well as at Ma Maison
where Wolfgang Puck got his start. The Bel-Air Hotel and
the revolving door at Sherwood Country Club also appear on his
resume. Capturing the attention of the culinary tenderfeet in Moorpark-
Simi and hopefully Westlake-North Ranch would seem to be as easy as
roping a calf in a corral. Well, as it turns out, not quite. |
Secret Garden Executive Chef Owner Michel Bardavid |
It is true that under Bardavid’s rein, the dishes are
now easily remembered but no longer pricey. Many main courses are under $20.
For $2 you can add a wonderfully dressed remarkably fresh and ample baby
green salad with a lemon vinaigrette. My wife had a perfectly pan seared
Mahi-Mahi over a medley of vegetables with truffle essence (19.50). I love
bouillabaisse and am a hard marker. The copious portions of fresh clams,
shrimp, salmon and whitefish (25.00) were poached perfectly moist in a
reduced lobster broth, Provence style. Fresh herbs are grown behind the
main dining room in The Secret Garden.
Last week, one of the specials was leek and
prosciutto stuffed veal chop with thyme and fennel risotto and baby
carrots in a merlot sauce. It was the most expensive item on the menu at
$26 but drew rave notices and was easily worth the price. My friend
ordered a Seafood Ravioli with a Lobster reduction sauce.(17.50) It
was lacking in passion. I wondered why he would order Italian food in
a French Restaurant. It is like ordering Chinese food in a Jewish
deli. Some people do that.
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Most desserts are made in house and are as good as
any in the county. There was a pear tatin, a Jean George inspired molten chocolate cake and a floating
island. The Espresso was high caliber..
However Bardavid is riding on a hard trail right
now. The demographics of the immediate area may not be quite ready for
serious Franco- American cuisine. In order to appeal to local
chuck-wagon tastes, some of his plates seem to lack the selection and
taste intensity that a more sophisticated diner would expect. He has
however, indicated to me that he can raise the standards if you call and
give him notice. His background certainly indicates his capabilities.
He can also prepare a reasonably priced tasting menu upon request. |
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The Secret Garden is available for a
Wide Range of Catered Affairs |
He does, however, have other survival weapons in his culinary arsenal. In the
“The Secret Garden” on a recent Sunday, there was a beautiful midday
outdoor multi-tented wedding with a 4- piece string quartet, dancing and
a gourmet lunch. The mood was festive. Service and food was flawless.
Since he can prepare serious restaurant food in a lovely setting rather
than depressing banquet food in a hall, The Secret Garden is a great
choice for a moderately priced daytime or evening group event seating up
to 200, weather permitting. |
They are open for lunch Tuesday- Friday, dinner
Tuesday- Sunday and Sunday Brunch. You can actually make it from the 101-23
interchange to their door in 12 minutes. North to the New Los Angeles exit.
Left on the 118 to first stop light (Spring Street), right on Spring Street
across the Amtrak Tracks to High Street. Left on to wide, clean, friendly
and well-lit High Street for a couple blocks. Adjacent parking on the left
of the restaurant.
The Secret Garden
255 East High Street Moorpark 805-552-9523
Most Credit Cards
Convenient Adjacent Parking Reservations Suggested
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