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Dining on the
Water
Bocaccio’s Re-Revisited
It is possible that I may be the oldest
living expert re Bocaccio’s at The Landing on
the lake at Westlake. We first dined there well over 30 years
ago when it was one of only two “upscale” restaurants in all Ventura
County. The other was the Ranch House in Ojai. Times have
obviously changed since then for both of them and ……for all
concerned. |
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We made what then seemed to be that long pre-freeway trek from Tarzana to
Westlake in search of a serious Italian dining adventure. The original
Milano’s then in Tarzana was nearby but its family style cooking
certainly could not be considered adventuresome. There was nothing else in
the “dreaded” Valley except for the wonderful pizza at Barone's in
Sherman Oaks. But, for serious Italian food, one had to go to Santa
Monica and dine at Valentino’s.
We had not yet formulated the theory that there is an
inverse relationship between full dining pleasure (especially the food
selection) and proximity to water environments or heights above surrounding
buildings. When is the last time you had a decent meal at any beach or bay?
Think Newport, Laguna or Malibu.
Places like Bocaccio’s and its two immediate Westlake
neighbors, plus Gladstone’s at the Beach, Duke’s, Moonshadow’s, The
Occidental Tower and that carousel of revolving restaurants at Ventura
and Oxnard harbors have since firmly reinforced the validity of the above
premise.
Still, it took the original arrogant owner about 25
years to finally chase away most of his customers with over-sauced and
overpriced creamy pseudo Italian food served by haughty waiters whose goal
seemingly was to prove that they knew more about food and wine than the
diners. This was in spite of the fact that most of these waiters could not
correctly pronounce the names of the food, nor the wine.

The restaurant was finally unloaded on an unsuspecting
real estate “maven” who should have known better. His offices were in the
Landing center. He decided to buy it for his most recent wife because she
told him that she believed in healthy food and had just taken out a
subscription for Gourmet magazine.
But they soon learned that, except for me, most
of the previous term customers had died or existed on Social Security. Those
that remained and were willing to pay those lakeside prices became furious
when items such as Beef Wellington and well- done Prime Rib end cuts (Are
they Italian?) were removed from the menu.
Then of course, there was the issue of no real
executive chef combined with the fact that the owner, Jim Emmons was
essentially an absentee manager. Boccacio’s on the lake was truly a ship
without a rudder…..or even a sail. Jim bailed out.
Along came the owner-management duo from the Landing
(an immediate neighbor) and Milano’s in Agoura.. That certainly
seemed to make sense. The long term Landing owner would provide onsite
attention and Mama and Pappa Milano should certainly be able to deliver
decent (perhaps even upscale Italian or Mediterranean) cooking to the lovely
outdoor- indoor ambience (especially the renovated front garden room) that
was still a main attraction. They even brought in the former executive chef
from North Ranch. He was also a friend of the Landing owner. We knew him.
As is our policy, we waited a bit more than three
months before visiting Boccacio’s to do a review. Young Joseph Milano, the
second generation restaurateur was the hands-on manager that evening. The
menu seemed hardly changed. Prices seemed high for what was eventually
served. It was a slow evening but the service was slower. We decided not
to do the review and give the restaurant a bit more time to settle in.
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Garden Room at Boccacio's
is Pleasant for Lunch or Dinner |
Serendipitally, we won a Boccacio's gift certificate at a recent
charity event and decided that it was a sign that we should revisit.
When we arrived at the restaurant midweek, Joseph Milano was dining
with a small group on the outside patio among a few other occupied
tables. We elected to dine inside at the pleasant glassed in area.
There were two other tables occupied in the main dining area and a
large private party in the back banquet room.
The evening started out well with a personable and competent wait
person. I received a very well prepared Gin Martini and my wife had
a pleasant Sauvignon Blanc. The wine list was pedestrian and offered
none of the great Sauvignon Blanc values that are available from New
Zealand. I look upon that kind of omission as a lack of interest in
what is actually going on in the world of upscale wining and dining. |
The appetizers were not inspiring so we went safe. We
each ordered a shrimp cocktail. There were5 plump and firm shrimp in each
bowl. At $11.50 each, they seemed a bargain since we had just read the
review on Sterling the latest in a line of phony steak houses in Hollywood
and environs. It was serving shrimp at $3.50 each!!! Do the math.
The main menu was also prosaic and certainly did not
bring any feeling of a potential dining adventure considering the lakeside
prices. It was hard to determine the kitchen’s basic direction except that
there was a section specifically devoted to red meat from the
broiler. My wife ordered the ubiquitous and perhaps now somewhat boring Sea
Bass (24.50). It was attractively plated and she reported that it was cooked
perfectly.
I was attracted to the only interesting item I saw on
the menu. Paella!!! I love Paella. So without looking further at the
description I ordered it. When it came to the table it was a plate of
linguini with some tasteless shrimp, clams and scallops and fish. There was
no rice, no sausage, no chicken, no spiciness. No Paella !!!!
I called the waiter over and told him that I thought I
had been served the wrong dish. He told me that it was “Italian”
Paella. I suggested that the chef needed a geography lesson. In
return for my advice the pleasant waiter then comped us for dessert which
was a pleasant baked Alaska with a large slab of Spumoni. Another
geographical conflict. But it was delicious. As we talked to the waiter over
espresso, we learned that Khos, the executive chef from North Ranch
was no longer on the premises. He was now cooking at a new restaurant opened
by the Landing owner. It was in Simi Valley. Exactly why a former country
club chef would move from Westlake to Simi Valley to cook was hard to
comprehend. Perhaps we learned the answer.
As we were leaving we saw that private party being
served dinner. They were all being served that newly discovered upscale dish
…..steak cooked medium rare. . The steaks were all substantial in size,
appeared to be cooked perfectly and extremely tempting.
No matter what any one tells you, it does not require
an executive chef to satisfy the average steak eater. Just observe the
action at places like OutBack and ClaimJumper where the meat
is probably Choice at best. Maybe!!! The people in the kitchen at these
places could easily be interchanged with the food preparers at PF Chang. The
skills are about equal.
To move somewhat upscale, all that is really required
is a good piece of Prime meat, Black Angus is a good start. Plus a hot
broiler, a pair of tongs to turn the meat and an alarm stopwatch... Thus,
until Mastro’s opens next year, Boccacio’s may be the place for more serious
diners to enjoy a pleasant steak dinner away from the thundering hordes.
It’s a thought.
Maybe that is what is in the mind of Joe Milano Jr.
When we left the restaurant, he was still sitting at the same table…outside.
He never came into the dining rooms to ask how the food was nor was he
checking on the service.
Maybe Joe has visited Outback and ClaimJumper and
figures steak eaters just don’t really pay attention to service. When we
first entered the very attractive dining room, we were taken to a table by a
guy who was dressed like one of the busboys and acted like it. I think he
also doubled as the bartender.
Boccacio’s 1234 Lindero Canyon at the Landing
- Open for Lunch and Dinner
Most Credit Cards - Convenient Parking - Reservations Recommended

Frankly Noted
Lots happening in the Conejo Right
Now
Most diners that visit the popular Gino's Tratorria
on Thousand Oaks Blvd West of the 23 think that owner Gino
provides more than enough entertainment on his own. In fact some think he
performs too much. But Gino apparently fears no one. He
has announced that as of right now he is offering live jockeyed
Karaoke every Sunday evening. One will wonder whether he can resist
joining in the singing. Let's hope that "Dat's Amore" is not on the
play list.
Gino's serves the best classic Napolitano crisp
thin crust Pizza in the county along with authentic Italian entrees at
friendly neighborhood family prices. Gino's is a real place with down to
earth atmosphere compared to the corporate cookie cutters that recently
opened at The Lakes or is it The Puddles?
Serge Bonnet, the perpetual motion machine at
Cafe Provencal reports that a new menu has now started with
exciting takes on his always creative and well executed Bistro style French
food at continually remarkable prices. He is also now doing serious
and upscale catering. His personality alone is worth the money.
Serge also reports that the Lakes has had an
effect upon his shopping center as people who can't find parking across the
street now park near his Cafe. That would be OK with him if they were real
diners who would realize that they could have a wonderful lunch or dinner
without a 2 hour wait at Cafe Provencal for pennies more than at the
Lakes.
But most of them seem to be parents with youngsters
licking ice cream cones that drip on the parking lot or they are in need of
a glass of water or the bathroom.
Le Cafe appears to have completed the remodel of
their facility that is part of the Westlake Inn complex. The
weather is perfect right now for either a relaxed afternoon lunch
among the fountains and the ducks or a romantic evening under the stars. The
menu is also being revamped after a recent change in the kitchen.
John Gress, formerly general manager of Le Cafe
continues to work hard at bringing Le Rendezvous of Newbury Park
into the
21st century. Calling it Tryst at Le Rendezvous is a provocative start. He
has done a limited amount of remodeling and is offering a new luncheon menu
created by his chef from Hawaii who
trained in Japan although she is neither Hawaiian nor Japanese. He has also
replaced most of the servers with young ladies who won't need a cane to get
the food to your table on time.
Most Wednesdays he has a fine jazz group playing in the
bar and often combines that with interesting wine tasting and hors
d'oeuvres for $10. it is a great value and attracts a sophisticated
young group who may have never before been inside Le Rendezvous.
As noted “The Lakes” finally opened with its latest
Caruso inspired tribute to semi-
fast food chain mediocrity. It is incredible to me that people would be
willing to wait 1 ½ hours prox to eat PF Chang style Chinese food cooked
and served by people that may not even know where China is located. The
restaurant has nice statues of horses but the food is just a cut above the
steam tables of Panda Express or the cans of La Choy. Barely.
ALL great and authentic Chinese, Japanese, Thai
and Vietnamese Asian foods are served by the
people of those countries. Period. There are many authentic family
restaurants located in the Conejo that serve wonderful food with short or no waits. They deserve your support.
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What do your children learn about reality or
authenticity in the world when they are served Asian food by young round
eyed blonde
girls and boys. Further it is cooked by some guy that didn’t know what a hot wok
was 6 months ago? Your children thus learn that anything can be faked........or frozen.
With all the great family Italian restaurants in the area,
also actually owned by Italians, why would
one want to eat a mass produced pizza from a California Pizza that was started by 2 Beverly Hills(??)
lawyers with no tastebuds? And wait an hour to get it? I don't get it!!!
I am not even going to comment on the advent of yet another
cookie cutter steak house that offers a grilled steak of suspect
origin (certainly not Black Angus or Kobe) that requires no skills in a
harried and annoying atmosphere that you can easily avoid at home with a
Martini or a beer in the relaxed environment of your patio. How long do you have to
wait there?
Of course the real laugher is that The Lakes management
is currently shocked, I mean shocked to discover that some clever diners at these above joints who
may also be going to a Civic Plaza event that evening leave their cars in the parking lot
for most of the night to
avoid a $7 parking tab and 30 minutes inhaling the fumes while trying to
escape the Plaza parking structure. A parking problem is already in
existence at The Lakes and they are now talking about a multi story parking lot.
Otherwise, I guess they will have to start towing
the cars. Yikes!!!!
If aged prime steak is your real need, you will soon
be able to dine at trendy Mastro’s of Beverly Hills (???) in the old
2087 location
across the street…. and safely leave your car parked free. It
will, however be interesting to see the looks of Conejoites when they
see $40 price tags (or more) on most of the steaks with $8-10 tabs for any
spinach, potato or
onion ring side dish . Of course, they will be saving that $7 parking fee. .
P-6 kept constantly touting itself as an upscale dining
location in an exotic environment. It turned out to be a pickup joint for
the tight leather pants crowd with lots of noise plus suspect food and
service.
Now they announce that they will in fact redo
themselves as that oft promised upscale dining facility but with a brand new
serving and culinary team… all done instantaneously. This is certainly the
century of “Instant Gratification”.
But the P-6 swingers can now do their seam busting strut
and dancing at the sister
Chapter 8 in Agoura in the remodeled Hamburger Hamlet location.
So far at least
they have made no claims about upscale dining.
It is amazing to me that in the Ventura County Star
letters to the Editor as well as in various conversations, all our
citizens constantly decry the loss of the reality of those relaxed good old
traffic free uncrowded days in Thousand Oaks.
Yet given any opportunity, they flock to all
these local crowded, noisy, phony joints of the "dreaded" big city, wait an hour to get
35 minutes of food
thrown at them by servers that don’t know the difference between a fork and
a spoon. It's like dining at Wal-Mart.
Why not support your local and authentic neighborhood
restaurants?. We have an abundance of every authentic ethnic spot in the Conejo. You’ll feel better
about yourself when you do.
Prices are about the same. None of the wait people will have name tags
telling you that their name is Tiffany and that they are at your
service.
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