However, while you may doubt it, I have been determined to keep an absolute firewall between any relationships and my occupation as a critic of fine dining.  Immodestly, I think that has been accomplished, resulting in respect from most food and hospitality professionals throughout Southern California, New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Monterey-Carmel.

Thus, we just visited Riviera Bistro for the first time to do a review in spite of the fact that it opened last year and in spite of the fact that many readers asked us to do a review…muy pronto. 

We delayed our visit for two reasons.  There was a need to avoid any indication of favoritism by running right in with a review. Further, as you know, we have a stated policy of waiting at least 3-4 months to allow a restaurant to settle-in....or in many cases close down.  Recent events at 4 Conejo upscale openings plus Riviera Bistro have clearly supported this approach.

Riviera did have some opening period jitters that were reported back to us early on and was  confirmed by management in a straightforward manner. Further,  we did report those conditions in our “Frankly Noted” feature.

Bluntly, it was worth the wait.

Then, there is the dining in three rooms. This separation creates a feeling of quiet intimacy although there is seating for about 110 people. In the main dining room there are luxury banquettes accented by low-key Murano lighting and elegant contemporary Italian sculpture. In two areas there is an awareness of subtle waterfalls.

I have not been in a more attractive dining facility North of the Santa Monica Mountains from East Pasadena to the Pacific….ever. While Bistro is in the name, the restaurant exudes true white tablecloth elegance. Frankly, few venues even South of the mountains are superior in ambience.  

After those initial flutters, the service is now pristine and professional under the management of Kevin Calvin, who should be recognized from his stint as the long term bar manager at Tuscany. He is assisted at busy times by wine manager, Fabio Longano, a nephew of Barletta’s from the Adriatic town of Bari. They both have had years of high energy training and it shows. All the service personnel are friendly, competent and extremely helpful.

Considering the quality, selection and portion size, the prices are remarkably fair. Maybe that’s where the “Bistro” term fits. There is a wide choice of appetizers including unusual salads large enough for splitting. Most are under $8. There is a Maine Lobster risotto for $10, a roasted eggplant and Manchego cheese soufflé at $8. Most soups are $7. A wide choice of Barletta inspired pastas, many of which are under $15 are offered. 

My wife had the Branzino (Mediterranean Sea Bass) as a special. At $24.95, it was cooked perfectly moist and served with a  selection of freshly steamed carrots and asparagus. One friend ordered short ribs ($20) in a red wine reduction. He loved it. His wife chose the duck cooked rare ($22) but crisp in a fig reduction served with orzo.

The wine list is extensive with obvious strength in Italian wines priced fairly. I tend to think that Chianti Classico Riservas 2000 are the best values right now.

There is an interesting selection of desserts ($6-8) featuring authentic Italian style Gelatos and Sorbets as well as the now ubiquitous warm chocolate cake inadvertently made famous by Jean George Vongerichten when he undercooked it about 6 years ago. 

Frankly, we tried to find something wrong with Riviera. We certainly didn’t want this article (for reasons noted above) to appear to be on the same level as those ill informed always wonderful Thursday reviews that you see in the local paper.

So we will tell you this. The restaurant is open for lunch and offers great values. But ….parking is somewhat difficult at that time and a just bit less difficult in the evening. Further, reservations at prime times for the weekend are currently booked about one month ahead.

For instant gratification (Isn’t that what today’s world is all about?)  we suggest you try Riviera Bistro mid week. Tell 'em FrankAboutFood  sent you. 

Riviera Bistro and Wine Bar

23683 Calabasas Road, Calabasas (Commons Annex)   818-224-2163

Open for Dinner Sunday - Saturday – Lunch Monday - Friday

Most Credit Cards - Free (but somewhat difficult) Shopping Center Parking.

Frankly Noted - Gossip Around The Conejo

John Gress, formerly the manager at Le Café has purchased the long running Le Rendez-vous in Newbury Park and plans some substantial and obviously needed changes.  The restaurant had been in a time warp for about 10 years.

Gress already has the restaurant open for lunch and of course for dinner with an innovative menu. He plans special wine events midweek with evening tastings featuring on the spot wine bargains.  Call for information.

Bellavino in Westlake has completed its new addition  featuring an intimate dining room. You can now dine there, in the bar (weekend jazz) or on the heated outdoor fireside patio. Bellavino has the most sophisticated wine-by-the-glass choices in the county. Their Kobe Beef Burger is worth every penny if you are as serious about burgers as I am. The rest of the menu with both small and large plates is a bit more esoteric. 

Carlos Orozco, owner of Adobe Cantina in Agoura has announced his tribute to the Macho Man with a Cigar and Tequila event midweek at the end of this month. He hadn't chosen the day as of deadline. So call the restaurant for further info. Adobe Cantina has the best selection of premium Tequila within 20 miles. En mi opinion. 

Cafe 14 in Agoura continues to get favorable comments from readers that report back to us after having read our review.  It is a refreshing entry to the ever- expanding fine dining experience of the area. Calabasas to Newbury Park now has many more exciting dining choices than the entire 1,000,000 base "dreaded" San Fernando Valley. Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Fusion, Sea Food, Mexican, it's all within 10-15 minutes of your door. Lacking only is a truly legitimate Steak House. Think Monty's in Woodland Hills. 

Rumor has it that the 2087 property has been sold for big bucks. One would wonder if someone has the courage to go back in with a restaurant and face the chain mediocrity going in across the street in the Civic Plaza.

If you missed Pookie and her high wire act when you recently visited her eponymous Water Court Thai spot, you should know that she is back after having her first child. Thus, the place is recovering from the chaos that existed without her almost acrobatic management style. Try it again if you were previously left confused. She deserves another chance. 

Further rumors that the beloved Gino (Mama Mia, only in America) owner of Gino's Tratorria and Catering  was selling out proved unreliable. He had contemplated it and then opening in Dos Vientos. But an uproar from his T.O, and Westlake customers convinced him that it was not a good idea. After all he provides the only Comedy entertainment on Thousand Oaks Blvd from Newbury Park to Agoura. 

He recently returned from Naples where he celebrated his parents 90th birthdays. Count on him being around for a while based upon his genes.  Naples is the origin of the authentic thin crust Pizza and Gino remembers those origins every day in the food he serves. 

At the other extreme of authentic, Louise’s Tratorria (omigod) is opening in the failed Sienna location. That puts 5 (count ‘em) passionless corporate style Italian (?) restaurants within two blocks of Westlake Blvd North of the freeway. Chef Boy-Ar- Dee must be rolling in his grave seeing that his canned or frozen Italian food biz has been replaced.  Has any one ever actually tasted any  freshly made  or even non- frozen ravioli topped with real Parmigiano Reggiano in  those places? Try asking for freshly grated Reggiano and see what happens.